Dog Grooming
Hi all,
We shall continue with Tips on Dog Grooming today.
Optional Tools and Supplies For Grooming Your Dog
Although you can customize your product selection to your type of breed and to specific products you want to use, below is a general list of the kinds of products you will want to consider for stocking your grooming station. The products listed are necessary for the basis of good dog grooming. Optional products are also included for dog owners who want to go the extra mile in grooming their dogs.
The following are eight necessary products essential for grooming your dog:
1. Shampoo for your dog's coat type
2. Coat conditioner for your dog's coat type
3. Petroleum jelly to protect your dog’s eyes and ears
4. Nail coagulant or styptic pencil
5. Medicated ear powder or other ear cleaning liquid such as rubbing alcohol or a product designed for this purpose
6. Eye drops for moistening and cleaning eyes
7. Cotton balls
8. Cotton swabs
The following is a list of optional products for your grooming:
1. Talcum powder for keeping skin wrinkles dry
2. Lanolin or oil based coat spray for sheen
3. Mineral oil for polishing nails
4. Cologne or other scented coat spray
That's all folks for today. Have a wonderful weekend. :o)
Dog Grooming
Sunday, April 30, 2006
Saturday, April 29, 2006
What Your Dog Needs To Take A Shower?
Dog Grooming
Hi all,
Hope you have fun reading my blog.
Okie, lets talk about bath inventory for your doggie friend today.
Bath Inventory For Your Dog
Once your dog is completely brushed, combed, and tangle-free, he is now ready for his bath. This means that it is time for you to take out all the necessary equipment and supplies so that you can easily reach what you need when you need it.
If you put that dog in the bathtub under running water and then have to go in search of shampoo or a scrub brush, we all know what could happen: a jump, a shake, and you will be a left with a soaked bathroom and a wet dog running around the house.
You will need some basic supplies to wash your dog. These include: Shampoo; conditioner; sponge; scrub brush; small scrub brush or soft-bristled nail brush to clean the face; bath mat; hand-held sprayer or a large plastic cup for rinsing; plastic or rubber apron for you or any clothes that can get wet such as a bathing suit; nylon collar and leash if you think your dog is likely to bolt or will be difficult to hang on to in the bath; one or two thick towel.
Assemble your supplies and then place them within easy reach of the sink or tub where you will bathe your dog.
If your dog gets into a really unpleasant odor, such as an encounter with a skunk or a roll in a dead animal's remains, you may have to take some extra measures.
Many pet stores sell de-skunking preparations, or you may try an old-fashioned remedy: Pour a few cans of tomato juice over the coat and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Rinse well and repeat if necessary.
One thing about this process is that it can turn white coats to pink. You can also mix a quart of hydrogen peroxide, a quarter-cup baking soda, and a dash of shampoo. Multiple shampooing may also be necessary.
In addition to a bath, you need to give your dog's eyes, ears, teeth, and rear a good cleaning. These areas of your dog's body all require proper hygiene, maintenance, and attention.
Neglected eyes, ears, teeth, and rears can all become unpleasant and even infected, so do your dog a favor and keep these areas well maintained. You could save a lot of money on vet care, not to mention avoiding pain and suffering for your pet.
The following is a list of tools and products that you will need for this part of the monthly grooming session:
1. Moisturizing eye drops for dogs with dry eyes or canine eyewash
2. Tear-stain remover (for light-colored dogs, if tear stains are a problem)
3. Ear hair tweezers and/or small scissors
4. Ear powder
5. Ear wash or mineral oil
6. Toothbrush or a piece of gauze big enough to wrap around your finger
7. Toothpaste for dogs
8. Small spray bottle
9. Dental sealer for heavy plaque deposits
10. Heavy gauze for emptying anal glands if necessary
11. Cotton balls and cotton swabs
That's all folks. See you at the next posting.
Dog Grooming
Hi all,
Hope you have fun reading my blog.
Okie, lets talk about bath inventory for your doggie friend today.
Bath Inventory For Your Dog
Once your dog is completely brushed, combed, and tangle-free, he is now ready for his bath. This means that it is time for you to take out all the necessary equipment and supplies so that you can easily reach what you need when you need it.
If you put that dog in the bathtub under running water and then have to go in search of shampoo or a scrub brush, we all know what could happen: a jump, a shake, and you will be a left with a soaked bathroom and a wet dog running around the house.
You will need some basic supplies to wash your dog. These include: Shampoo; conditioner; sponge; scrub brush; small scrub brush or soft-bristled nail brush to clean the face; bath mat; hand-held sprayer or a large plastic cup for rinsing; plastic or rubber apron for you or any clothes that can get wet such as a bathing suit; nylon collar and leash if you think your dog is likely to bolt or will be difficult to hang on to in the bath; one or two thick towel.
Assemble your supplies and then place them within easy reach of the sink or tub where you will bathe your dog.
If your dog gets into a really unpleasant odor, such as an encounter with a skunk or a roll in a dead animal's remains, you may have to take some extra measures.
Many pet stores sell de-skunking preparations, or you may try an old-fashioned remedy: Pour a few cans of tomato juice over the coat and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Rinse well and repeat if necessary.
One thing about this process is that it can turn white coats to pink. You can also mix a quart of hydrogen peroxide, a quarter-cup baking soda, and a dash of shampoo. Multiple shampooing may also be necessary.
In addition to a bath, you need to give your dog's eyes, ears, teeth, and rear a good cleaning. These areas of your dog's body all require proper hygiene, maintenance, and attention.
Neglected eyes, ears, teeth, and rears can all become unpleasant and even infected, so do your dog a favor and keep these areas well maintained. You could save a lot of money on vet care, not to mention avoiding pain and suffering for your pet.
The following is a list of tools and products that you will need for this part of the monthly grooming session:
1. Moisturizing eye drops for dogs with dry eyes or canine eyewash
2. Tear-stain remover (for light-colored dogs, if tear stains are a problem)
3. Ear hair tweezers and/or small scissors
4. Ear powder
5. Ear wash or mineral oil
6. Toothbrush or a piece of gauze big enough to wrap around your finger
7. Toothpaste for dogs
8. Small spray bottle
9. Dental sealer for heavy plaque deposits
10. Heavy gauze for emptying anal glands if necessary
11. Cotton balls and cotton swabs
That's all folks. See you at the next posting.
Dog Grooming
Friday, April 28, 2006
7 Types Of Shampoos For Your Dog
Dog Grooming
Hi all,
As promised yesterday, I shall talk about the types of shampoo today.
7 Types Of Shampoos For Your Dog
With so many different kinds of dog shampoos on the market today, it is not easy to decide which one to use. For most breeds, a basic, all-purpose shampoo is fine. But if you want your shampoo to do more than clean, you might consider a specialty shampoo.
• Shampoos designed to deliver extra conditioning to long or curly coats can make post-bath grooming even easier.
• Accentuate your dog's coat color by choosing a shampoo made for white, black, or red coats.
• For sensitive eyes, consider a tearless shampoo.
• For wire-coated dogs, look for a shampoo designed to preserve the crisp texture of your dog's coat.
• Many dogs have sensitive skin or eyes. A hypoallergenic shampoo can minimize sensitivity reactions to bathing.
• If your dog already has a rash, allergies, itching, or other sensitive skin conditions, look for a medicated shampoo designed to treat your dog's problem. Your vet should be able to recommend a good medicated shampoo for your dog.
• For flea season, consider a shampoo containing a gentle anti-flea ingredient such as pyrethrin or limonene, or any of several natural botanicals designed to repel fleas, such as neem oil.
I shall talk about the required bath inventory at my next post.
See ya.
Dog Grooming
Hi all,
As promised yesterday, I shall talk about the types of shampoo today.
7 Types Of Shampoos For Your Dog
With so many different kinds of dog shampoos on the market today, it is not easy to decide which one to use. For most breeds, a basic, all-purpose shampoo is fine. But if you want your shampoo to do more than clean, you might consider a specialty shampoo.
• Shampoos designed to deliver extra conditioning to long or curly coats can make post-bath grooming even easier.
• Accentuate your dog's coat color by choosing a shampoo made for white, black, or red coats.
• For sensitive eyes, consider a tearless shampoo.
• For wire-coated dogs, look for a shampoo designed to preserve the crisp texture of your dog's coat.
• Many dogs have sensitive skin or eyes. A hypoallergenic shampoo can minimize sensitivity reactions to bathing.
• If your dog already has a rash, allergies, itching, or other sensitive skin conditions, look for a medicated shampoo designed to treat your dog's problem. Your vet should be able to recommend a good medicated shampoo for your dog.
• For flea season, consider a shampoo containing a gentle anti-flea ingredient such as pyrethrin or limonene, or any of several natural botanicals designed to repel fleas, such as neem oil.
I shall talk about the required bath inventory at my next post.
See ya.
Dog Grooming
Thursday, April 27, 2006
Using A Shampoo To Bathe Your Dog
Dog Grooming
Hi all,
Yesterday I mentioned that I shall touch on types of shampoo to use at this post, but I think I should talk about how to bathe your dogs before talking about the types of shampoo.
So lets begin......
Using A Shampoo To Bathe Your Dog
Every dog, whether shorthaired or longhaired, needs to be groomed on a regular basis. Dogs also need to be bathed regularly.
They love to be clean and groomed, evidenced by how playful they become after their grooming sessions.
They enjoy being told how beautiful they look, and a clean dog is a lot more fun to train than a dirty dog.
In bathing your dog, the general guideline in bathing is this: When your dog smells like a dog, bathe him. Some dogs' coats repel dirt and pollution more effectively than others.
Dogs live in a variety of environments, and his environment, as well as how much your dog is exposed to dirt or how dirty your dog becomes just eating his food, will dictate how often to bathe.
The easiest way to bathe your dog is in the bathtub because you need hot and cold water to get the shampoo out of his coat. You need to get a spray attachment for the faucet and a rubber mat to prevent him from slipping.
Start bathing your dog when he is still a puppy and you can easily get him in and out of the tub. As he grows up, size permitting, he will get into the tub by himself. Make it a pleasant experience by giving him a treat after you have placed him into the tub and after his bath. Also teaching your dog to stand on command helps considerably.
Use a gentle shampoo diluted with water. If you use the shampoo full strength, it will take a while to rinse him and get all the shampoo out of his coat. Dry him with a thick towel, and you are all set.
If you have a small dog, bathing him in the kitchen sink will be easier on your back. Another alternative is to bathe him in a washtub outside, although you may not have access to warm water, and in some parts of the country, bathing him outside would not work too well in the winter.
Contrary to popular belief, only few dogs do not like getting a bath. Most of them actually enjoy it. They love the attention, and the warm water makes them calm and relaxed.
For bathing your dog, choose a mild herbal shampoo, something you would use for yourself. Rinsing your dog in a solution of apple cider vinegar and water, ½ vinegar and ½ water helps to repel fleas and other skin parasites. This solution also balances out the pH levels of the skin and is excellent for minor skin irritations. Your dog will have a wonderfully shiny coat after this treatment.
Yes, I shall talk about types of shampoo to use at my next post, so stay tuned. :o)
Dog Grooming
Hi all,
Yesterday I mentioned that I shall touch on types of shampoo to use at this post, but I think I should talk about how to bathe your dogs before talking about the types of shampoo.
So lets begin......
Using A Shampoo To Bathe Your Dog
Every dog, whether shorthaired or longhaired, needs to be groomed on a regular basis. Dogs also need to be bathed regularly.
They love to be clean and groomed, evidenced by how playful they become after their grooming sessions.
They enjoy being told how beautiful they look, and a clean dog is a lot more fun to train than a dirty dog.
In bathing your dog, the general guideline in bathing is this: When your dog smells like a dog, bathe him. Some dogs' coats repel dirt and pollution more effectively than others.
Dogs live in a variety of environments, and his environment, as well as how much your dog is exposed to dirt or how dirty your dog becomes just eating his food, will dictate how often to bathe.
The easiest way to bathe your dog is in the bathtub because you need hot and cold water to get the shampoo out of his coat. You need to get a spray attachment for the faucet and a rubber mat to prevent him from slipping.
Start bathing your dog when he is still a puppy and you can easily get him in and out of the tub. As he grows up, size permitting, he will get into the tub by himself. Make it a pleasant experience by giving him a treat after you have placed him into the tub and after his bath. Also teaching your dog to stand on command helps considerably.
Use a gentle shampoo diluted with water. If you use the shampoo full strength, it will take a while to rinse him and get all the shampoo out of his coat. Dry him with a thick towel, and you are all set.
If you have a small dog, bathing him in the kitchen sink will be easier on your back. Another alternative is to bathe him in a washtub outside, although you may not have access to warm water, and in some parts of the country, bathing him outside would not work too well in the winter.
Contrary to popular belief, only few dogs do not like getting a bath. Most of them actually enjoy it. They love the attention, and the warm water makes them calm and relaxed.
For bathing your dog, choose a mild herbal shampoo, something you would use for yourself. Rinsing your dog in a solution of apple cider vinegar and water, ½ vinegar and ½ water helps to repel fleas and other skin parasites. This solution also balances out the pH levels of the skin and is excellent for minor skin irritations. Your dog will have a wonderfully shiny coat after this treatment.
Yes, I shall talk about types of shampoo to use at my next post, so stay tuned. :o)
Dog Grooming
Wednesday, April 26, 2006
Tools & Supplies For Grooming Your Dog
Groom Your Dog
Hi all,
One of the routine we as the dog owner must do is to bathe and groom our doggie friends, so lets talk about the tools needed.
Tools & Supplies For Grooming Your Dog
Although you can customize your product selection to your type of breed and to specific products you want to use, below is a general list of the kinds of products you will want to consider for stocking your grooming station.
The products listed are necessary for the basis of good dog grooming. Optional products are also included for dog owners who want to go the extra mile in grooming their dogs.
The following are eight necessary products essential for grooming your dog:
1. Shampoo for your dog's coat type
2. Coat conditioner for your dog's coat type
3. Petroleum jelly to protect your dog’s eyes and ears
4. Nail coagulant or styptic pencil
5. Medicated ear powder or other ear cleaning liquid such as rubbing alcohol or a product designed for this purpose
6. Eye drops for moistening and cleaning eyes
7. Cotton balls
8. Cotton swabs
The following is a list of optional products for your grooming:
1. Talcum powder for keeping skin wrinkles dry
2. Lanolin or oil based coat spray for sheen
3. Mineral oil for polishing nails
4. Cologne or other scented coat spray
That's all folks, we shall continue on types of Shapoo to use at the next posting.
Stay tuned and see ya. :o)
Groom Your Dog
Hi all,
One of the routine we as the dog owner must do is to bathe and groom our doggie friends, so lets talk about the tools needed.
Tools & Supplies For Grooming Your Dog
Although you can customize your product selection to your type of breed and to specific products you want to use, below is a general list of the kinds of products you will want to consider for stocking your grooming station.
The products listed are necessary for the basis of good dog grooming. Optional products are also included for dog owners who want to go the extra mile in grooming their dogs.
The following are eight necessary products essential for grooming your dog:
1. Shampoo for your dog's coat type
2. Coat conditioner for your dog's coat type
3. Petroleum jelly to protect your dog’s eyes and ears
4. Nail coagulant or styptic pencil
5. Medicated ear powder or other ear cleaning liquid such as rubbing alcohol or a product designed for this purpose
6. Eye drops for moistening and cleaning eyes
7. Cotton balls
8. Cotton swabs
The following is a list of optional products for your grooming:
1. Talcum powder for keeping skin wrinkles dry
2. Lanolin or oil based coat spray for sheen
3. Mineral oil for polishing nails
4. Cologne or other scented coat spray
That's all folks, we shall continue on types of Shapoo to use at the next posting.
Stay tuned and see ya. :o)
Groom Your Dog
Monday, April 24, 2006
More Equipment For Your Puppy
Hi all,
Lets continue with More Equipment For Your Puppy.
Before your new puppy arrives home, you will need to buy a certain amount of equipment. It is a good idea to obtain them beforehand in preparation for your puppy’s arrival. Essential equipment that you will need are food, water and food bowls, a crate or a pen, and collars and leashes. Below is a list of other necessary equipment for your new puppy.
Grooming supplies: There are a variety of brushes and combs available; choose those which are suitable for your dog’s coat. Other supplies you may need are towels, scissors, clippers, stripping combs, and shears.
Deodorizer and Cleaner: During the house-training of your puppy there are bound to be some "accidents." Because puppies tend to return to the scene where they detect the smell of urine and feces, it is important that these spots be cleaned properly using a product that effectively neutralizes the odor. For cleaning puppy accidents on nonporous hard surfaces, as well as on carpeting, it is best to use a pet deodorizer/cleaner designed for this purpose, which you can obtain at a pet store or online.
Toys: Every puppy needs several toys to play with. Examples of recommended toys are a meat-scented nylon bone, tennis ball, and play ring to avoid boredom and control chewing. It is better to start puppies out on nylon bones as opposed to rawhide ones, since they are much more durable and less expensive in the long run.
Folding gate: This is necessary in order to confine a pup to a particular area. The gate should be sturdy, made of a material other than wood (which is chewable) and have slats that are small enough to prevent a puppy from sticking his head through and getting caught.
Dog bed: This is excellent for giving pups a secure sense of place when they sleep. The best dog beds use a combination of cedar chips and fiberfill; cedar chips are a natural repellent to fleas and ticks, and fiberfill helps preserve the bed's shape and softness. Make sure that the cover is removable, washable, and durable.
Pooper scooper: To make cleanup of the soiling area easier.
Last but not least, before you buy a large quantity of dog food, it is best to talk to your breeder or veterinarian. Choosing a suitable, high-quality dog food is an important factor in your dog's health, and it pays to check with professionals before you make your decision.
That's all folks, seeya at the next posting. :o)
Lets continue with More Equipment For Your Puppy.
Before your new puppy arrives home, you will need to buy a certain amount of equipment. It is a good idea to obtain them beforehand in preparation for your puppy’s arrival. Essential equipment that you will need are food, water and food bowls, a crate or a pen, and collars and leashes. Below is a list of other necessary equipment for your new puppy.
Grooming supplies: There are a variety of brushes and combs available; choose those which are suitable for your dog’s coat. Other supplies you may need are towels, scissors, clippers, stripping combs, and shears.
Deodorizer and Cleaner: During the house-training of your puppy there are bound to be some "accidents." Because puppies tend to return to the scene where they detect the smell of urine and feces, it is important that these spots be cleaned properly using a product that effectively neutralizes the odor. For cleaning puppy accidents on nonporous hard surfaces, as well as on carpeting, it is best to use a pet deodorizer/cleaner designed for this purpose, which you can obtain at a pet store or online.
Toys: Every puppy needs several toys to play with. Examples of recommended toys are a meat-scented nylon bone, tennis ball, and play ring to avoid boredom and control chewing. It is better to start puppies out on nylon bones as opposed to rawhide ones, since they are much more durable and less expensive in the long run.
Folding gate: This is necessary in order to confine a pup to a particular area. The gate should be sturdy, made of a material other than wood (which is chewable) and have slats that are small enough to prevent a puppy from sticking his head through and getting caught.
Dog bed: This is excellent for giving pups a secure sense of place when they sleep. The best dog beds use a combination of cedar chips and fiberfill; cedar chips are a natural repellent to fleas and ticks, and fiberfill helps preserve the bed's shape and softness. Make sure that the cover is removable, washable, and durable.
Pooper scooper: To make cleanup of the soiling area easier.
Last but not least, before you buy a large quantity of dog food, it is best to talk to your breeder or veterinarian. Choosing a suitable, high-quality dog food is an important factor in your dog's health, and it pays to check with professionals before you make your decision.
That's all folks, seeya at the next posting. :o)
Basic Equipment For Your Puppy
Hi all,
Hope all of you had a good week.
Some of you requested me to spend sometimes talking about the equipment used for training and common accessories used for taking care of your doggie friends, so I am dedicating this week on this very useful and interesting topic.
Okie, lets start off with Basic Equipment For Your Puppy
You do not have to spend a fortune on equipment for your new puppy, though it is a good idea to have a number of essential items on hand before you bring your puppy home.
These include food and water bowls, collar and leash, grooming tools, shipping crate or metal cage, deodorizer/cleaner, and toys.
Do not wait until you already have the puppy to do this, since you will be using them right from the start. Try a pet-supply store or mail-order catalogue, as opposed to a department or hardware store because the products are usually sturdier and of better quality.
For food and water bowls, tip-proof bowls are highly recommended, either heavy ceramic or stainless steel. Make sure that the bowls are big enough to be used when the puppy grows up.
Do not use cheap plastic or metal bowls because they can splinter or develop jagged edges if the puppy starts chewing on them. Also keep in mind that certain breeds with long, floppy ears such as hounds and spaniels do best with a specially tapered bowl that prevents the ears from resting in the bowl as the puppy eats or drinks.
Collars and leash are also important. Since most puppies grow quickly, by the time they are adults, medium to large-sized dogs have outgrown at least two collars and two leashes, so keep your initial purchases simple.
It is recommended that you start with two collars that are either flat nylon or rounded leather collar to hold an identification tag and dog license (in case your dog gets lost), and a training collar for preliminary obedience work.
Nylon collars are preferred over metal ones, since they are easier on a dog's coat and stay up higher on the neck.
For puppies, lightweight nylon show leads (six-foot) are excellent. They introduce the pup to a leash gently, without trauma, and are relatively inexpensive.
As the puppies grow, they require a more durable training leash. A six-foot braided leather leash is then recommended without sewn parts that could separate. The width you choose depends on what size your pup will be at maturity.
Shipping crate or metal cage are very effective, humane aids in house-training a puppy. Having a shipping crate or a metal cage is also the safest way to transport a dog by car, preventing injury due to sudden stops.
You can either get an airline-approved kennel made of high-density plastic, or a slant-front metal cage designed especially for transporting dogs in hatchbacks or station wagons.
These are lightweight and can be disassembled easily for cleaning. Since they are expensive, get a crate that will be big enough for your pup to use when he is fully grown.
Okie, that's all for this post, shall continue at the next posting.
See ya.
Hope all of you had a good week.
Some of you requested me to spend sometimes talking about the equipment used for training and common accessories used for taking care of your doggie friends, so I am dedicating this week on this very useful and interesting topic.
Okie, lets start off with Basic Equipment For Your Puppy
You do not have to spend a fortune on equipment for your new puppy, though it is a good idea to have a number of essential items on hand before you bring your puppy home.
These include food and water bowls, collar and leash, grooming tools, shipping crate or metal cage, deodorizer/cleaner, and toys.
Do not wait until you already have the puppy to do this, since you will be using them right from the start. Try a pet-supply store or mail-order catalogue, as opposed to a department or hardware store because the products are usually sturdier and of better quality.
For food and water bowls, tip-proof bowls are highly recommended, either heavy ceramic or stainless steel. Make sure that the bowls are big enough to be used when the puppy grows up.
Do not use cheap plastic or metal bowls because they can splinter or develop jagged edges if the puppy starts chewing on them. Also keep in mind that certain breeds with long, floppy ears such as hounds and spaniels do best with a specially tapered bowl that prevents the ears from resting in the bowl as the puppy eats or drinks.
Collars and leash are also important. Since most puppies grow quickly, by the time they are adults, medium to large-sized dogs have outgrown at least two collars and two leashes, so keep your initial purchases simple.
It is recommended that you start with two collars that are either flat nylon or rounded leather collar to hold an identification tag and dog license (in case your dog gets lost), and a training collar for preliminary obedience work.
Nylon collars are preferred over metal ones, since they are easier on a dog's coat and stay up higher on the neck.
For puppies, lightweight nylon show leads (six-foot) are excellent. They introduce the pup to a leash gently, without trauma, and are relatively inexpensive.
As the puppies grow, they require a more durable training leash. A six-foot braided leather leash is then recommended without sewn parts that could separate. The width you choose depends on what size your pup will be at maturity.
Shipping crate or metal cage are very effective, humane aids in house-training a puppy. Having a shipping crate or a metal cage is also the safest way to transport a dog by car, preventing injury due to sudden stops.
You can either get an airline-approved kennel made of high-density plastic, or a slant-front metal cage designed especially for transporting dogs in hatchbacks or station wagons.
These are lightweight and can be disassembled easily for cleaning. Since they are expensive, get a crate that will be big enough for your pup to use when he is fully grown.
Okie, that's all for this post, shall continue at the next posting.
See ya.
Sunday, April 23, 2006
How To Keep Your Dog Tick-Free?
Hi all,
Lets move on to an important topic today.
That is how to keep you Dog Tick-Free.
Dogs and in general all pets tend to spend more of their time outdoors. In case of dogs, it is very important to be careful about parasites, bugs and micro organisms that can harm them while they get their whiff of fresh air. Precautions are necessary to keep these dangers away.
One of these pests that can cause a lot of nuisance and damage are the ticks since they carry diseases. Avoiding the ticks is of prime importance than curing at a later stage.
Why Ticks?
Ticks tend to stick to warmer temperatures, CO2 and movement. Ticks do not transmit through the air. Their motion is limited to crawling. They transmit themselves by climbing up taller structures or plants and drop onto any living and moving human or animal.
The danger of diseases or kinds of diseases transmitted by ticks depends upon the country and culture, therefore the cure of after effects of ticks and ticks itself varies from country to country. The danger of having ticks on your dogs body begins once the tick bites.
The bite itself is painless and unfeeling but the place of bite might get infected in no time. Consulting a veterinarian is advisable for treatment which normally involves oral antibiotics.
If your pet dog is diseased due to a tick bite, there is a risk of infection spreading due to your dog salivation on or biting another pet. The most popular disease spread by a tick bite is the lyme disease but not the only one.
How to keep ticks away from your pet dog
The best way to avoid ticks is to avoid walking your dog in the midst of vegetation during tick season. Always keep the vegetation around your house trimmed. Certain preventive medication products are also available. More information can be gathered from your veterinarian about suitability of these to your dog in respect to age and area.
Do not use medications without consulting and proper instructions must be followed in using this kind of medication. Please remember that these medications are suited for a single class of pets only, meaning that tick prevention medication for dogs is for dogs only and should not be used on cats or any other pets.
Removing Ticks
When your dog comes back from outdoors make sure to check him carefully for ticks. They are normally found in warm areas, under the arms, in the ears, between the toes and in the folds of the skin.
If you find any, remove them safely. Do not touch the tick, use a alcohol swab, then pull it up slowly with tweezers. Make sure not to leave any parts of the tick sticking to your dog. If you are unsuccessful contact your vet.
Okie, that's all for this time round, folks.
See ya.
Lets move on to an important topic today.
That is how to keep you Dog Tick-Free.
Dogs and in general all pets tend to spend more of their time outdoors. In case of dogs, it is very important to be careful about parasites, bugs and micro organisms that can harm them while they get their whiff of fresh air. Precautions are necessary to keep these dangers away.
One of these pests that can cause a lot of nuisance and damage are the ticks since they carry diseases. Avoiding the ticks is of prime importance than curing at a later stage.
Why Ticks?
Ticks tend to stick to warmer temperatures, CO2 and movement. Ticks do not transmit through the air. Their motion is limited to crawling. They transmit themselves by climbing up taller structures or plants and drop onto any living and moving human or animal.
The danger of diseases or kinds of diseases transmitted by ticks depends upon the country and culture, therefore the cure of after effects of ticks and ticks itself varies from country to country. The danger of having ticks on your dogs body begins once the tick bites.
The bite itself is painless and unfeeling but the place of bite might get infected in no time. Consulting a veterinarian is advisable for treatment which normally involves oral antibiotics.
If your pet dog is diseased due to a tick bite, there is a risk of infection spreading due to your dog salivation on or biting another pet. The most popular disease spread by a tick bite is the lyme disease but not the only one.
How to keep ticks away from your pet dog
The best way to avoid ticks is to avoid walking your dog in the midst of vegetation during tick season. Always keep the vegetation around your house trimmed. Certain preventive medication products are also available. More information can be gathered from your veterinarian about suitability of these to your dog in respect to age and area.
Do not use medications without consulting and proper instructions must be followed in using this kind of medication. Please remember that these medications are suited for a single class of pets only, meaning that tick prevention medication for dogs is for dogs only and should not be used on cats or any other pets.
Removing Ticks
When your dog comes back from outdoors make sure to check him carefully for ticks. They are normally found in warm areas, under the arms, in the ears, between the toes and in the folds of the skin.
If you find any, remove them safely. Do not touch the tick, use a alcohol swab, then pull it up slowly with tweezers. Make sure not to leave any parts of the tick sticking to your dog. If you are unsuccessful contact your vet.
Okie, that's all for this time round, folks.
See ya.
Saturday, April 22, 2006
A Doggie Friend Could Change Your Lifestyle and Maybe Even Your LIfe!
Hi all,
We have been talking about housebreaking for our doggy friends for the past few weeks, lets take a break and talk aobut something else.
Hm..... shall we talk about our dog and our lifestyle?
For some these two notions might seem too far apart to present any similarities. But still, more than we know, dogs as object of our love or repulsion, affect our lifestyle.
Each and every one of us has gone through at least one experience that included a dog. Whether sad or fortunate, these experiences exist and cannot be ignored. As every other marking moment emotions triggered by a dog at some point influent our ways from that moment on.
Just for fun I want to show you what I mean by giving a rather unknown example to prove my point.
Let’s say you are over 30 and tried already every diet in the world to loose a few ponds. And naturally, nothing worked. Well, one evening, rainy evening of course, you come across a little fluffy puppy abandoned just next to the garbage can in front of your house.
You don’t necessarily like dogs, but this one seems different and so alone, maybe even a little sick, that you feel pity (you think) for him and take him in…just for the night. And then you keep him another night, and another one till he officially becomes your pet – you can’t deny it anymore.
You walk him every day at fixed hours and, although you forgot all about your weight problem being too busy petting the little pet, you amazingly reached undreamed results in that particular problem. Surprised?
You shouldn’t be, it’s known (by some at least) that regular daily 10 – 15 minutes walks are the best diet of all. Try them on your own and you might get bored and give up. But with a dog, the walks are a must, they have to be done, you can’t miss any of them.
So, the little innocent dog not only made you a better person since you let him into your house (and heart), but also solved the problem you had that all your determination and lost money on diet products couldn’t solve.
If I wasn’t convincing enough, just try it. Get a dog. And miraculously you will be a different person.
We have been talking about housebreaking for our doggy friends for the past few weeks, lets take a break and talk aobut something else.
Hm..... shall we talk about our dog and our lifestyle?
For some these two notions might seem too far apart to present any similarities. But still, more than we know, dogs as object of our love or repulsion, affect our lifestyle.
Each and every one of us has gone through at least one experience that included a dog. Whether sad or fortunate, these experiences exist and cannot be ignored. As every other marking moment emotions triggered by a dog at some point influent our ways from that moment on.
Just for fun I want to show you what I mean by giving a rather unknown example to prove my point.
Let’s say you are over 30 and tried already every diet in the world to loose a few ponds. And naturally, nothing worked. Well, one evening, rainy evening of course, you come across a little fluffy puppy abandoned just next to the garbage can in front of your house.
You don’t necessarily like dogs, but this one seems different and so alone, maybe even a little sick, that you feel pity (you think) for him and take him in…just for the night. And then you keep him another night, and another one till he officially becomes your pet – you can’t deny it anymore.
You walk him every day at fixed hours and, although you forgot all about your weight problem being too busy petting the little pet, you amazingly reached undreamed results in that particular problem. Surprised?
You shouldn’t be, it’s known (by some at least) that regular daily 10 – 15 minutes walks are the best diet of all. Try them on your own and you might get bored and give up. But with a dog, the walks are a must, they have to be done, you can’t miss any of them.
So, the little innocent dog not only made you a better person since you let him into your house (and heart), but also solved the problem you had that all your determination and lost money on diet products couldn’t solve.
If I wasn’t convincing enough, just try it. Get a dog. And miraculously you will be a different person.
Wednesday, April 19, 2006
Housebreaking for Adult Dog - Paper Training
Hi all,
Lets talk about Paper Training for Adult Dog.
Whether you are training a brand new puppy or an older dog, paper training can be done with patience and repetition. The one main idea I have learned through my years of dog training is any old dog can learn a new trick or command.
If you have an older dog that is not making it outside in time to go to the bathroom, begin paper training.
Remember, dogs are extremely smart and intelligent animals, they are also man’s best friend and all they want to do is please their owner.
Paper training a dog can bring you some relief and even your dog!
Having a dog for many years, an owner begins to understand their canine companion as well as their expressions.
Consider how your dog may feel when it can’t understand why when it has to go the bathroom, it just goes! It is not a happy emotion for a dog to feel they have no control over their bladder so as an owner, be understanding and don’t yell.
When this began happening to our friend's dog, Sammy. She would get very upset.
Sammy always had to be clean and when this began, it was more upsetting to see her shake out of fear of getting disciplined for having an accident than anything else.
We were gentle with her and began to place the newspaper around her area so she would understand. When she would have an accident, we would take the newspaper and clean her pee with it and place it in the spot where we wanted her to go to the bathroom.
A good spot is the bathroom.
Lay clean newspaper down all around the floor.
If the dog is small and begins to have an accident, pick them up and place them right on the newspaper in the bathroom.
If the dog is larger, try to lead him into the bathroom where the newspaper is.
The initial shock of peeing inside the home has to wear off for these dogs before any paper training can occur.
Once they understand that going to the bathroom on paper is allowed, then repetition of placing the dog on the paper and positive commands follows.
If you want to make the dog feel more comfortable, buy a toy fire hydrant or a few plastic trees.
Remember, when a dog pees and poops outside, they usually have to find their “spot” to relief themselves; inside on paper they cannot do this.
That's all folk for this posting.
Take care of yourself and your doggie friend.
Lets talk about Paper Training for Adult Dog.
Whether you are training a brand new puppy or an older dog, paper training can be done with patience and repetition. The one main idea I have learned through my years of dog training is any old dog can learn a new trick or command.
If you have an older dog that is not making it outside in time to go to the bathroom, begin paper training.
Remember, dogs are extremely smart and intelligent animals, they are also man’s best friend and all they want to do is please their owner.
Paper training a dog can bring you some relief and even your dog!
Having a dog for many years, an owner begins to understand their canine companion as well as their expressions.
Consider how your dog may feel when it can’t understand why when it has to go the bathroom, it just goes! It is not a happy emotion for a dog to feel they have no control over their bladder so as an owner, be understanding and don’t yell.
When this began happening to our friend's dog, Sammy. She would get very upset.
Sammy always had to be clean and when this began, it was more upsetting to see her shake out of fear of getting disciplined for having an accident than anything else.
We were gentle with her and began to place the newspaper around her area so she would understand. When she would have an accident, we would take the newspaper and clean her pee with it and place it in the spot where we wanted her to go to the bathroom.
A good spot is the bathroom.
Lay clean newspaper down all around the floor.
If the dog is small and begins to have an accident, pick them up and place them right on the newspaper in the bathroom.
If the dog is larger, try to lead him into the bathroom where the newspaper is.
The initial shock of peeing inside the home has to wear off for these dogs before any paper training can occur.
Once they understand that going to the bathroom on paper is allowed, then repetition of placing the dog on the paper and positive commands follows.
If you want to make the dog feel more comfortable, buy a toy fire hydrant or a few plastic trees.
Remember, when a dog pees and poops outside, they usually have to find their “spot” to relief themselves; inside on paper they cannot do this.
That's all folk for this posting.
Take care of yourself and your doggie friend.
Monday, April 17, 2006
Tell Your Doggie How Far He or She Can Go!
Hi all,
Lets talk about "Boundary Training" today.
The excitement of a new puppy is overwhelming and many times extended families want to be involved. Some times family members who think they know better will give their opinions when it comes to teaching a dog its boundaries. Remember, the new puppy you plan on keeping for many years and the sooner they learn boundaries, the easier it will be to train.
Boundary training is important in the step of housebreaking since a dog needs to know what area of the home is theirs. This means when the dog enters their new home, the owner should already have planned where the new puppy will sleep and eat. Some owners use a baby fence and section off one room, usually the kitchen or bathroom, for the new puppy.
By not allowing the new puppy to roam free, this teaches the puppy only certain areas they are allowed in.
One day we decided to see what would happen if we gave Tymmie more freedom to roam while we were home. He was around five months old and we felt he was already house broken, so there was no worries about accidents, or so we thought!
Tymmie’s area was the family room and the kitchen. When he wasn’t in his crate, he was allowed in these two rooms which were sectioned off with baby gates. We took the gates away and allowed him in our master bedroom, living room, and dining room.
We were so impressed with Tymmie having no accidents and then the night time came. As I was getting ready to go to sleep, I sat on our bed and as I was about to lay down, “AAaHHHHH, Tymmie peed in the carpet next to my bed!” I screamed and Tymmie came running into the bedroom and slowly crept away. He began shaking and hid under the dining room table!
Trying not to laugh, we told him no peeing in the bed! Then we walked him to his crate and told him to go inside. Our thinking was if he saw how upset we got when he peed in our bed, by putting him back into the crate right away, he would connect the two.
The next few months, Tymmie was kept inside his boundaries until we felt he was ready to try again. Between eight and nine months, Tymmie was allowed to roam free only when we were home. By this time, we changed his crate to a 12 foot wide pen. When Tymmie turned a year and a half, he learned his boundaries and never has had an accident since.
Some tips to remember:
Lets talk about "Boundary Training" today.
The excitement of a new puppy is overwhelming and many times extended families want to be involved. Some times family members who think they know better will give their opinions when it comes to teaching a dog its boundaries. Remember, the new puppy you plan on keeping for many years and the sooner they learn boundaries, the easier it will be to train.
Boundary training is important in the step of housebreaking since a dog needs to know what area of the home is theirs. This means when the dog enters their new home, the owner should already have planned where the new puppy will sleep and eat. Some owners use a baby fence and section off one room, usually the kitchen or bathroom, for the new puppy.
By not allowing the new puppy to roam free, this teaches the puppy only certain areas they are allowed in.
One day we decided to see what would happen if we gave Tymmie more freedom to roam while we were home. He was around five months old and we felt he was already house broken, so there was no worries about accidents, or so we thought!
Tymmie’s area was the family room and the kitchen. When he wasn’t in his crate, he was allowed in these two rooms which were sectioned off with baby gates. We took the gates away and allowed him in our master bedroom, living room, and dining room.
We were so impressed with Tymmie having no accidents and then the night time came. As I was getting ready to go to sleep, I sat on our bed and as I was about to lay down, “AAaHHHHH, Tymmie peed in the carpet next to my bed!” I screamed and Tymmie came running into the bedroom and slowly crept away. He began shaking and hid under the dining room table!
Trying not to laugh, we told him no peeing in the bed! Then we walked him to his crate and told him to go inside. Our thinking was if he saw how upset we got when he peed in our bed, by putting him back into the crate right away, he would connect the two.
The next few months, Tymmie was kept inside his boundaries until we felt he was ready to try again. Between eight and nine months, Tymmie was allowed to roam free only when we were home. By this time, we changed his crate to a 12 foot wide pen. When Tymmie turned a year and a half, he learned his boundaries and never has had an accident since.
Some tips to remember:
- Decide on the rooms the puppy is allowed in
- Have baby gates available to section off rooms
- Don’t let a new puppy roam free
and
ALWAYS CHECK YOUR CARPET!
Wednesday, April 12, 2006
Give Your Dog A Toilet Break!
Hi,
Today, lets not just focus on the training method but another important aspect of helping your doggie friends to build up the good housebreaking habit.
That is ......... Sticking to a Schedule.
New dog owners do not always seem to understand the basics of housebreaking a puppy. Besides the wanting of the puppy to learn to go outside to the bathroom, has anyone ever thought of the simple concept of time?
What I mean is just like humans are set to a schedule; wake up in the morning, go to the bathroom, take a shower, brush your teeth, get dressed, and go to work; so are puppies. The only differences are puppies need to be taught their schedule, just like a baby.
Developing a schedule and sticking to it daily, even on the weekends, will help solve some of the issues concerning housebreaking your puppy.
When I began housebreaking Tymmie, it was a rainy summer! One of my neighbors who owns two dogs and was a breeder kept seeing me outside with her every fifteen minutes. One day, after a week of this, she said to me, “Why do you keep taking Tymmie outside when he doesn’t need to go?” My answer was I didn’t want him to go to the bathroom in the house or clean up any more pee and poop! So keeping Tymmie outside made it easier for me to not have to worry about smelling that lovely scent.
This is a common mistake of many new dog owners. The basic rule is for every month old a puppy is, the amount of hours plus one they should be able to hold themselves. We began housebreaking Tymmie at three months old, so according to the rule, he should have been able to hold his bladder for four hours. He was capable of doing this and even at times for five or six hours! The meaning behind this concept is a puppy bladder is only large enough to hold a certain amount of urine and as they grow, so do their bladders.
Writing out a schedule and sticking to it seemed to work the best.
First thing in the morning, before being feed, take the dog out to pee. Give lots of praise when they go.
Then after feed the dog.
Four hours later, around lunch time, take the dog out again for their second pee and poop time.
Before dinnertime, about four hours later, take the dog out again before eating dinner.
Last pee and poop time should be around 8:00-9:00 pm.
Another note, after dinner is finished; do not allow any food or water till the next day. This helps eliminate accidents.
Also, having a new puppy is similar to having a new baby in the sense they may wake up several times throughout the night. This is part of the schedule and eventually the puppy will learn to sleep through the night, just like a baby does. But until then, establishing a schedule sets you and your puppy up for a long lifetime of pee free and poop free housing.
Plan the schedule out, it works wonder, especially for new dog owner, it is a MUST.
Today, lets not just focus on the training method but another important aspect of helping your doggie friends to build up the good housebreaking habit.
That is ......... Sticking to a Schedule.
New dog owners do not always seem to understand the basics of housebreaking a puppy. Besides the wanting of the puppy to learn to go outside to the bathroom, has anyone ever thought of the simple concept of time?
What I mean is just like humans are set to a schedule; wake up in the morning, go to the bathroom, take a shower, brush your teeth, get dressed, and go to work; so are puppies. The only differences are puppies need to be taught their schedule, just like a baby.
Developing a schedule and sticking to it daily, even on the weekends, will help solve some of the issues concerning housebreaking your puppy.
When I began housebreaking Tymmie, it was a rainy summer! One of my neighbors who owns two dogs and was a breeder kept seeing me outside with her every fifteen minutes. One day, after a week of this, she said to me, “Why do you keep taking Tymmie outside when he doesn’t need to go?” My answer was I didn’t want him to go to the bathroom in the house or clean up any more pee and poop! So keeping Tymmie outside made it easier for me to not have to worry about smelling that lovely scent.
This is a common mistake of many new dog owners. The basic rule is for every month old a puppy is, the amount of hours plus one they should be able to hold themselves. We began housebreaking Tymmie at three months old, so according to the rule, he should have been able to hold his bladder for four hours. He was capable of doing this and even at times for five or six hours! The meaning behind this concept is a puppy bladder is only large enough to hold a certain amount of urine and as they grow, so do their bladders.
Writing out a schedule and sticking to it seemed to work the best.
First thing in the morning, before being feed, take the dog out to pee. Give lots of praise when they go.
Then after feed the dog.
Four hours later, around lunch time, take the dog out again for their second pee and poop time.
Before dinnertime, about four hours later, take the dog out again before eating dinner.
Last pee and poop time should be around 8:00-9:00 pm.
Another note, after dinner is finished; do not allow any food or water till the next day. This helps eliminate accidents.
Also, having a new puppy is similar to having a new baby in the sense they may wake up several times throughout the night. This is part of the schedule and eventually the puppy will learn to sleep through the night, just like a baby does. But until then, establishing a schedule sets you and your puppy up for a long lifetime of pee free and poop free housing.
Plan the schedule out, it works wonder, especially for new dog owner, it is a MUST.
Monday, April 10, 2006
Teach Your Dog Words To Tell You When He or She Wants To Pee
Hi,
Lets teaching your Dog some "Bathroom Words" today..
When Tymmie began understanding words like, stand, sit, down, walk, inside, outside, ok, no and etc so we decided to teach her what Peepee and Poopoo meant
While Tymmie and I would take walks, I would catch myself having conversations with him and my neighbors looking at me very strangely. So during these awkward moments, I began using the words Peepee Poopoo letting Tymmie know it was time to go to the bathroom almost as a cover up so the neighbors didn’t think I had totally gone insane. Then on a walk one day with Tymmie, I used the words and Tymmie found a spot and instantly went!
I was so impressed with him going to the bathroom on demand that we began using other words, while we were in the house, to indicate it was time to go out to the bathroom.
The shorter the word the better the command worked.
There are a number of dogs who like to be involved in every aspect of their owner’s life, including when they have company over and sharing what is happening with them. Tymmie is one of these social butterflies who NEEDS to be involved if not the center of attention. When she begins her fight for attention, I have learned to ignore it since it can occur six times a day and it gets a little old really fast!
Then one day while my friend was visiting, in the middle of our conversation Tymmie said, “Ooooouuuutttt.” I didn’t hear it but my friend swore up and down Tymmie spoke. As we continued with our conversation, Tymmie said it again, opening him mouth very wide and loudly screaming ‘OOOUUTTT!” And then just stared at both of us as he stood by the door waiting to be taken out. My friend and I looked freakily at one another.
Our conclusion, with all the conversing I did with Tymmie as a puppy, he really began understanding what words meant. Besides the typical words for objects like bone or car, he actually learned the words I would use to indicate it was time to go out to the bathroom.
Remember to keep the words short and your tone of voice positive and excited when giving the command.
Some words to try are:
· Out - Seemed like a simple, short word a puppy would understand. At first as a puppy Tymmie wasn’t connecting the word and the motion but as he grew into an adult dog, he slowly began to understand.
· Go – This word worked well since Tymmie understood the motion of running and moving.
· Play – Doesn’t every dog like to play?
· Park – All of Tymmie’s doggy friends were at the park.
See how really smart dogs can be!
Lets teaching your Dog some "Bathroom Words" today..
When Tymmie began understanding words like, stand, sit, down, walk, inside, outside, ok, no and etc so we decided to teach her what Peepee and Poopoo meant
While Tymmie and I would take walks, I would catch myself having conversations with him and my neighbors looking at me very strangely. So during these awkward moments, I began using the words Peepee Poopoo letting Tymmie know it was time to go to the bathroom almost as a cover up so the neighbors didn’t think I had totally gone insane. Then on a walk one day with Tymmie, I used the words and Tymmie found a spot and instantly went!
I was so impressed with him going to the bathroom on demand that we began using other words, while we were in the house, to indicate it was time to go out to the bathroom.
The shorter the word the better the command worked.
There are a number of dogs who like to be involved in every aspect of their owner’s life, including when they have company over and sharing what is happening with them. Tymmie is one of these social butterflies who NEEDS to be involved if not the center of attention. When she begins her fight for attention, I have learned to ignore it since it can occur six times a day and it gets a little old really fast!
Then one day while my friend was visiting, in the middle of our conversation Tymmie said, “Ooooouuuutttt.” I didn’t hear it but my friend swore up and down Tymmie spoke. As we continued with our conversation, Tymmie said it again, opening him mouth very wide and loudly screaming ‘OOOUUTTT!” And then just stared at both of us as he stood by the door waiting to be taken out. My friend and I looked freakily at one another.
Our conclusion, with all the conversing I did with Tymmie as a puppy, he really began understanding what words meant. Besides the typical words for objects like bone or car, he actually learned the words I would use to indicate it was time to go out to the bathroom.
Remember to keep the words short and your tone of voice positive and excited when giving the command.
Some words to try are:
· Out - Seemed like a simple, short word a puppy would understand. At first as a puppy Tymmie wasn’t connecting the word and the motion but as he grew into an adult dog, he slowly began to understand.
· Go – This word worked well since Tymmie understood the motion of running and moving.
· Play – Doesn’t every dog like to play?
· Park – All of Tymmie’s doggy friends were at the park.
See how really smart dogs can be!
Tuesday, April 04, 2006
Teach Your Dog To Ring The Bell To Tell You When He or She Wants To Pee!
Hi, lets learn a quite fascinating housebreaking method today.
For any person who has studied Psychology and understands the concept behind Pavlov’s dog experiment which was, “When the bell rang the dog began to salivate indicating it was time for food,” can take this same concept and apply it to housebreaking methods.
As a puppy, they need to understand the correct places to relief themselves. Once this rule is learned, then higher level thinking activities can be taught, learned, and comprehended.
For instance, during the holiday season many pet stores are selling soft plush elastic colorful dog collars with bells on them. Besides the fact that many dogs may not like the bells constantly ringing in their ears, the collars are the perfect size to hang on a door handle.
When I saw the colorful collar at the pet store and the picture of the dog with it on the label, my first thought was, “How great would it be to make Tymmie wear this and then take pictures of him!”. But he doesn’t like pictures or collars.
My main reason for buying the large bell collar was to teach a new housebreaking method of ringing the bells to indicate when he needed to go out. Of course at first I made him wear the collar for twenty minutes as I snapped pictures and he gave the puppy dog torture face. Afterwards I took it off and showed him where I was putting the bell collar around the front door handle and began using it as a training tool.
Figure if an older dog is having trouble walking or is affected with arthritis, by the time they find their owner to tell them they need to go out, it may be too late and an accident may occur beyond their control.
One way of teaching an old dog this new trick is:
· Every time you walk out of the door, say the word out and ring the bell.
· Do this five times before taking the dog out the door so they can begin to understand that when the bell is rung, it symbolizes going outside to go to the bathroom.
For any person who has studied Psychology and understands the concept behind Pavlov’s dog experiment which was, “When the bell rang the dog began to salivate indicating it was time for food,” can take this same concept and apply it to housebreaking methods.
As a puppy, they need to understand the correct places to relief themselves. Once this rule is learned, then higher level thinking activities can be taught, learned, and comprehended.
For instance, during the holiday season many pet stores are selling soft plush elastic colorful dog collars with bells on them. Besides the fact that many dogs may not like the bells constantly ringing in their ears, the collars are the perfect size to hang on a door handle.
When I saw the colorful collar at the pet store and the picture of the dog with it on the label, my first thought was, “How great would it be to make Tymmie wear this and then take pictures of him!”. But he doesn’t like pictures or collars.
My main reason for buying the large bell collar was to teach a new housebreaking method of ringing the bells to indicate when he needed to go out. Of course at first I made him wear the collar for twenty minutes as I snapped pictures and he gave the puppy dog torture face. Afterwards I took it off and showed him where I was putting the bell collar around the front door handle and began using it as a training tool.
Figure if an older dog is having trouble walking or is affected with arthritis, by the time they find their owner to tell them they need to go out, it may be too late and an accident may occur beyond their control.
One way of teaching an old dog this new trick is:
· Every time you walk out of the door, say the word out and ring the bell.
· Do this five times before taking the dog out the door so they can begin to understand that when the bell is rung, it symbolizes going outside to go to the bathroom.
· Some dogs may pick it up within a week; others may take longer like closer to a month but have patience.
Make the dog ring the bells as well. Say the word out as you ring the bell. Then say the word out and tell the dog to ring the bell. For every one he gets right, reward it with a treat or a positive, loving praise.
Tymmie learned within two weeks that ringing the bell lets us know he needed to go out. While I had company over, out of nowhere Tymmie went up to the door and rang the bell. At first I wasn’t aware he did it and then he did it again! What a proud master I was and gave him tons of praise, hugs, and kisses and then ran him outside before an accident could occur.
Have you ever thought about using the bell dog collar as a training tool for an adult dog that may be having trouble getting outside in time?
Some advantages to using a bell:
- Older dogs may not be able to hold themselves long enough to find their owners and make it back to the door in time.
- Arthritic dogs find it too much of an effort to walk.
- Eliminates over excessive barking
- Stops jumping up on the owner
The accidents which were occurring just from bladder control issues can be eliminated with the correction method of ringing of the bells.
Give it a try, it is really fun to see your dog ring the bell. :o)
Monday, April 03, 2006
Newspaper For Your Dog ....To Pee, Though He or She Could Read It At The Same Time
Hi, lets talk about a very common housebreaking method for your doggies, that is Paper Training.
One of the most frustrating things about raising a puppy can be the constant accidents. If you live in a city, like I used to, you probably do not have a yard for your little puppy to run around in. This was the situation for me when I got my Maltiese, Tymmie.
I was living in an apartment complex, and there was nowhere where Tymmie could run around on his own. He could really only leave the apartment with me, on a leash.
The noises of the traffic would make Tymmie nervous and sometimes he had accidents while I was gone or at night while I was sleeping.
Because I rarely caught him in the act, I could not tell him what he was doing was wrong.
I could not discipline Tymmie when the accident occurred, I knew that to scold after the fact would be pointless and, possibly, even detrimental to Tymmie's house training.
I had to figure out a way to make the accidents stop, or at least to get Tymmie to use the restroom in one area.
He was still very young, so I knew I had a good chance of paper training as long as I acted quickly. After doing some reading, I heard about paper training and thought that it would be a great way to train a puppy who lived in the city.
By placing newspaper in Tymmie’s pen, I introduced him to the paper. As much as I would have loved to have a dog who actually read the paper; I was happy when he began to pee on it on his own. When he did, I would give him a treat and remove the paper, replacing it immediately.
Tymmie began to use newspaper as his permanent restroom.
Once Tymmie understood the concept, I decided to try to use the newspaper outside of the pen.
· I placed the newspaper down on the floor with a plastic floor mat under it.
· I made sure to spread the newspaper out to try to make sure that Tymmie did not miss. Occasionally, he did miss. When this happened, I did not discipline.
· Remember, if your dog misses, he or she will still think that the paper is being hit and is doing the right thing.
· To yell at your dog, or to scold him or her in anyway, will only confuse your puppy.
When your puppy misses, react as you would if he or she actually hit the paper. Then, immediately clean up to make sure the puppy does not get used to the smell of urine on the floor.
If there is a urine scent on the floor, your puppy will come to think that that is the right place to urinate. You need to make sure that that does not happen or you will never stop steam cleaning your carpets!
As Tymmie got used to going to the bathroom on the paper, I began to move the paper closer and closer to the door of the apartment.
· He got used to the paper moving, I eventually put the paper outside the door.
· When he got used to finding the paper outside the door, and when I got tired of cleaning the hallway while neighbors were walking by, I began to close to door.
· Tymmie would whimper to be let out to the paper. When he did this, I would take him outside so that he could use the restroom outside.
Eventually, Tymmie would whimper at the door to use the restroom and when I opened it, he would run towards the stairs. After he got to this stage, he never had an accident again and I didn’t have to smell puppy pee anymore!
One of the most frustrating things about raising a puppy can be the constant accidents. If you live in a city, like I used to, you probably do not have a yard for your little puppy to run around in. This was the situation for me when I got my Maltiese, Tymmie.
I was living in an apartment complex, and there was nowhere where Tymmie could run around on his own. He could really only leave the apartment with me, on a leash.
The noises of the traffic would make Tymmie nervous and sometimes he had accidents while I was gone or at night while I was sleeping.
Because I rarely caught him in the act, I could not tell him what he was doing was wrong.
I could not discipline Tymmie when the accident occurred, I knew that to scold after the fact would be pointless and, possibly, even detrimental to Tymmie's house training.
I had to figure out a way to make the accidents stop, or at least to get Tymmie to use the restroom in one area.
He was still very young, so I knew I had a good chance of paper training as long as I acted quickly. After doing some reading, I heard about paper training and thought that it would be a great way to train a puppy who lived in the city.
By placing newspaper in Tymmie’s pen, I introduced him to the paper. As much as I would have loved to have a dog who actually read the paper; I was happy when he began to pee on it on his own. When he did, I would give him a treat and remove the paper, replacing it immediately.
Tymmie began to use newspaper as his permanent restroom.
Once Tymmie understood the concept, I decided to try to use the newspaper outside of the pen.
· I placed the newspaper down on the floor with a plastic floor mat under it.
· I made sure to spread the newspaper out to try to make sure that Tymmie did not miss. Occasionally, he did miss. When this happened, I did not discipline.
· Remember, if your dog misses, he or she will still think that the paper is being hit and is doing the right thing.
· To yell at your dog, or to scold him or her in anyway, will only confuse your puppy.
When your puppy misses, react as you would if he or she actually hit the paper. Then, immediately clean up to make sure the puppy does not get used to the smell of urine on the floor.
If there is a urine scent on the floor, your puppy will come to think that that is the right place to urinate. You need to make sure that that does not happen or you will never stop steam cleaning your carpets!
As Tymmie got used to going to the bathroom on the paper, I began to move the paper closer and closer to the door of the apartment.
· He got used to the paper moving, I eventually put the paper outside the door.
· When he got used to finding the paper outside the door, and when I got tired of cleaning the hallway while neighbors were walking by, I began to close to door.
· Tymmie would whimper to be let out to the paper. When he did this, I would take him outside so that he could use the restroom outside.
Eventually, Tymmie would whimper at the door to use the restroom and when I opened it, he would run towards the stairs. After he got to this stage, he never had an accident again and I didn’t have to smell puppy pee anymore!
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