Wednesday, August 30, 2006

How To Test A Puppy From The Litter (Part 1)

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.

Without further ado, I would like begin today very interesting sharing with you............

Learn How To Test A Puppy From The Litter (Part 1)

Many articles have been written about how to choose a puppy that is right for you, how to determine which kind of dog breed would best suite your lifestyle, and how to welcome your new puppy at home – but very few people discuss how to “test” a puppy from a litter that you are viewing for selection.

First of all, play with the puppy that you are considering bringing home! Sit on the floor so that you're a friendly, non-threatening figure, and talk to her in a sweet voice; let her come to you, climb into your lap, sniff you, get used to your presence. Use a toy or a treat to break the ice, if necessary.

Already you'll be able to tell a few things about her personality. If she runs or slinks away and you can't coax her to you, she's probably going to be a shy and submissive dog who will need lots of patient training and reassurance if she's to have a normal social life. If she's at the other end of the spectrum and trounces you merrily while chewing on your clothes, biting at your hair and barking, she's likely to be a dominant, brassy dog to whom you'll need to lay down the law firmly.

Ideally, either she'll come right to you and play gently, or she'll start off timidly but grow accustomed to you in a minute or so. If she nips or mouths a little bit, don't hold it against her; that's a normal puppy behavior, and she only needs to be taught to keep her teeth to
herself. But if she's obnoxiously overbearing, or if she bites hard, be wary.

If she's worried about you at first, that too may be a completely normal response to this new situation. But if she's so scared that she shakes, growls or hides, she may not be the one for you. You want her to be curious and confident; she should accept your petting, scratching and cheerful talking without biting you or cowering. Watch for a wagging tail and a head held high!

Next, get up and walk across the room, patting your leg or clap-ping your hands encouragingly as you go. If she follows willingly, that's a great sign. If she follows so willingly that she feels the need to bite your ankles or attack your feet, that's another indication of a dominant, demanding disposition. And if she stays put or heads in the other direction, that's a sign of shyness or just plain lack of interest. You want her to be responsive and intrigued, not over-bearing, scared or bored.

Ok, lets stop here and continue at my next posting.

Take care and have fun.


Puppy Training

Monday, August 28, 2006

How To Come Up With A Fun Loving Name For Your Dog?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
How was your weekend? I believed it is great. :o)

Hey, have you collected your free eBook at my newly created website?
If You have not, hurry, click here to visit.

Ok, lets begin with today sharing............

How To Come Up With A Fun Loving Name For Your Dog

Naming a dog has to be one of the most delightful parts of getting one. It seems not a year goes by without a new book of dog names being published, including ones that specialize, such as a book on Irish names. We have no fewer than six books of names on our bookshelves, including two that were meant for the parents of human babies, not canine ones.

Do you need to keep anything in mind when naming a dog? Yes. Avoid names that sound like common obedience commands. A friend of mine who had worked in Alaska adopted a beautiful husky mix and wanted to name her Sitka, after a place he'd loved visiting. After I pointed out she'd have a hard time telling the difference between "Sitka" and "sit," he named her “Bella” instead.

Keep names short, one or two syllables, and easy to pronounce. I tend to use "people" names for my own pets, but you don't have to limit yourself. Name books are a good start, but don't forget atlases or special dictionaries such as those for foreign words or a book of baseball, railroad, gardening, or music terms, if your interests lie in any of those directions.

Make your puppy love his name as much as you do by making sure that it has a positive association. Never scream your puppy's name at him or use it in punishment. The late dog trainer Job Michael Evans used to recommend making up a song with your dog's name in it and singing to him. Commercial jingles are wonderful for this, he said, because they're catchy and you can put the pet's name in where the product is mentioned.

"You Are My Sunshine" becomes "You Are My Andy" ("you make me happy/because you're gray") and Benjamin gets regaled with the Monty Python, "Spam" song, with Ben substituted for Spam — "Ben, Ben, Ben, Ben, Ben, Ben, Ben, Ben, Wonderful Ben ..."

Yes, it's silly. But try it anyway. You'll both smile. If you have a purebred dog, he'll have a registered name, too. You get 28 letters and spaces with the American Kennel Club to come up with a registered name for your pet. If you choose a name someone else has already chosen, the AKC issues it along with a number to distinguish your dog's name from the others, so unless you want your collie to be the AKC's 897,042th "Lassie," use all those spaces to come up with something sure to be unique.

Ok, that's all for today sharing.

Till we 'woof' again, think about a fun and unique name for your puppy if you just gotten one.


Puppy Training

Sunday, August 27, 2006

You Wouldn't Want To Miss This!

Puppy Training

Hi all,
A Very Good Saturday to you.

As the world continues to revolve on its own pace, many movements and developments came out and filled the entire cosmos instantly. These improvements create a titanic result to most of the people. One of those great improvements that ever came out and caught the attention of the whole humanity is the fitness industry.

It is undeniable that many people today have prodigious interest and intensity to fitness programs, and one of the most popular fitness programs that have swept the continents by storm is Pilates.

Pilates for long years has been setting a new level of standards to the fitness industry. It is known and favored by many dieters, athletes, and body builders worldwide because of a number of benefits that Pilates is capable of bringing. It is even very popular among many pregnant and nursing mothers as it creates wonders that are obtainable from no other techniques. Now, it is being labeled as the most excellent approach to fitness.

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Ok, till we 'woof' again, remember to visit


Puppy Training

Saturday, August 26, 2006

Why Is My Dog's Personality Important To Consider When Dog Training?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.
I must apologize for being inconsistent in my posting lately. The reason is I and a group of friends are working on a special Internet project. We are going to launch this project within the next 24 hours. I shall reveal more later and definitely you will be the first one to know about it and to claim your freebies we are giving away. So stay tuned.

Ok, lets start today sharing .......

Why Is My Dog's Personality Important To Consider When Dog Training?

When training a dog, it is imperative to determine which combination of personality traits the dog possesses. This is important for a number of reasons. First, it will give you an indication of how your dog will respond to training. Second, it will let you develop and employ the proper attitude and demeanor while carrying out exercises. Third, this knowledge will help you determine what training equipment will enhance your success.

For example, when teaching the dog to lie down and stay (called the "down-stay"), you will get different reactions from dogs with different personalities. A dominant dog will resist this exercise because lying down is a dog's most submissive body posture. A submissive dog will do this exercise much more readily. (This creature spends much of his time on his back in the submissive down position anyway.) The extrovert will want to break the down-stay to greet every person who enters the room. The shy dog may also want to break the down-stay when someone enters the room - to go hide under the end table.

When the dog does break the down-stay, you may be able to correct the pain-sensitive dog physically with only one shake on the scruff of the neck. This will convince him not to break the stay. You may have to repeat this correction several times to convince the pain-insensitive dog that he must not move. If this dog doesn't deem a shake on the scruff of the neck disagreeable, you may have to employ a correction that is perhaps a bite on the muzzle or a jerk-and-release on the training collar.

During obedience training, your dog's personality should also dictate your demeanor and body posture. A firm, even-toned "NHAA" may convince your submissive dog to abort movement and remain in the down-stay. You may be able to deliver this "NHAA" while sitting in your easy chair and still get a good response from the dog. On the other hand, you may have to remain standing, hovering over your dominant dog while growling a harsh, threatening "NHAA" to convince this animal of what you want. Your voice alone may not do the trick and you may have to accompany your "NHAA" with the noise of a shake can.

And lastly, the personality of the dog you are training should determine the training equipment you choose. For example, when teaching controlled walking you may find that an extremely pain sensitive and submissive dog will respond to the exercise in order to avoid jerks on a buckle collar. A dog who is moderately pain sensitive but has tendencies toward being dominant may require the jerk and release of a metal training collar to achieve the same results. A highly pain-insensitive dog may require a pinch collar before he will respond to the controlled walking exercise.

Ok, that's all for today sharing, hope you have gained some knowledge in Puppy/Dog training.

Before I sign off, remember to check this blog within the next 24 hours about my project launch and to claim your freebies.

Till we 'woof' again, have a wonderful weekend.


Puppy Training

Wednesday, August 23, 2006

Why Are There So Many Dog Breeds?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.
Have you ever wonder why are there so many dog breeds?

Ok, today I am going to share with you what I have found.......

Why Are There So Many Dog Breeds? (Part 1)

It is amazing at just how diversified the species Canis Familiaris has become as a result of the selective breeding efforts of humankind. Why was this done? Dogs are smart creatures, and so are humans. Humans recognized long ago the potential benefit of establishing a partnership with dogs. Dogs are easy to train because they are loyal to their leadership hierarchy. Once a leader is identified, the other members of the pack will do just about anything to support that leader.

This is the reason that dogs are easier to train than cats; it's not that they are smarter, it's just that they have an instinctual allegiance to the pack and the pack leader. Cats - except for lions and to a lesser extent, cheetahs - are not pack animals and do not have a well-defined group mentality. Early human hunter-gatherers realized that the canine pack leader could be replaced by a human. The survival of the human tribe at that time depended in part on the success of the hunt. We humans, however, have never been the physical equal of our prey; we are slow, low on endurance, and sensorially inept in comparison to animals. The only advantages we had were our intellect, our tribal loyalty, and, like the dog, our ability to work cohesively as a team.

Our chief competitors at the time included the canids, or wild dogs, some of which hunted in well-choreographed packs. Dogs could run faster and longer than humans. They could operate masterfully as a team and pick up a scent where no scent was discernible to humans. By establishing a partnership with canids, we could greatly increase our chances of a productive hunt. But which species would be the best candidate for domestication? The fox, a solitary nocturnal creature, has no pack order at all; no pecking order is established in the litter, and except during mating, the fox exhibits no social organization. Coyotes and certain types of jackals form permanent male-female pair-bonds, but they do not establish permanent pack associations. Wolves, African hunting dogs, and dingoes all have a well-defined pack hierarchy in place, and all exhibit complex social interaction. Because these two ingredients seem to help create greater cognitive ability, these animals were the most likely candidates for domestication.

Domestication required more than simply changing behavior patterns, however; the animal itself had to be physically changed through selective breeding to better suit our needs. Wild wolf females come into season only once a year, in harmony with their prey's season. Domestic dog females come into heat two to three times a year; this allows for more rapid selective breeding to occur. Also, most wild dogs do not reach sexual maturity until they are two years of age, whereas domestic dogs are sexually capable at six to nine months. Also, male wolves are potent only during the breeding season, whereas male domestic dogs are always potent.

Lets stop here today, I shall share more at my next post.


Puppy Training

Monday, August 21, 2006

How To Take Your Dog For Hiking Trips?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Have a good weekend with your doggie friends?

Did you go hiking?
Hm....... I would like to share the following with you today.

Taking Hiking Trips With Your Dog

If you like the outdoors, then some of the best times you can have with your dogs is by wandering around on roads and trails. Curious, full of wonder and excitement, dogs are sometimes the best companions. They're not self-sufficient, however, so you need to keep some things in mind when it comes to hiking, backpacking canine style, and some hazards to watch out for on the trail.

First of all, have your veterinarian check your dog to ensure she's healthy enough for these demanding excursions! Dogs should be conditioned (every day walks will do) before taking them out for a hike.

To me there is no more relaxing activity in the world than hiking in nature. Hiking, however, is a strenuous activity and not without risks, so if you're going to take a hike with your dog, you need to follow a few guidelines:

* The first priority is to determine if your dog is healthy enough to hit the trail. If you're not sure, go to your vet. Ask the vet to check your dog's heart, blood, and respiration. If all is well and your dog is game, take him on a short hike near your home. Does he run out of energy? You need to do some conditioning: Jogging, tennis-ball fetch, and swimming are great ways to get your dog in shape.

* Aside from conditioning her heart, you need to toughen up those toes. But watch those pads! If your dog is out of shape, her pads will wear quickly and might even bleed.

* Before you go out on the trail, make sure your dog's ID tags, rabies inoculation, and license are up-to-date. For extra precaution, you can have your veterinarian embed a microchip in your dog's shoulders that can be used to track them if they're ever lost or stolen.

* Respect all trail restrictions. If an area is blocked off, don't go there. If the trail requires all dogs to be on leash, comply. Even if it doesn't, leash your dog if she won't stay with you. And always have a pooper-scooper of some sort to pick up after your dog if he goes to the bathroom on a trail other people will be using.

Ok, that's all for today sharing, will continue with more info for you at my next post.


Puppy Training

Friday, August 18, 2006

Do You Know That Dogs Can Readily Be Trained To Distinguish The Vowels "a" and "i"?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
How are you getting on?
I believe you and your doggie friend are having a good time.

Ok, when you talk to or give command to your doggie friend, are you sure he/she understands what you are saying?
Hm...lets' begin today sharing...........

A Dog's Understanding Of Words, Or Lack Thereof

Trained dogs can easily distinguish dozens of different words of human speech. It is always a temptation to believe that they actually understand what these words mean, yet given the nature of their own communication system, the odds seem strongly against it.

Dogs have come to associate certain sounds with certain actions, but those associations are often extremely dependent upon other contextual cues that we may not be aware of. One way to show this is to try giving a dog a familiar command over an intercom. Even a command that the dog is highly motivated to carry out is often ignored unless it is accompanied by some additional cues in our body language.

Indeed, for all of the many continuities that link humans with nonhuman animals, one of the great discontinuities is the way we use language. Human infants, almost as soon as they begin to learn the names of things, take a manifest pleasure in using the name for its own sake. They will point to an object and say what it is - not because they want it, but for no other reason than to share the pleasure of calling the attention of another human mind to it. Even language-trained animals, such as chimpanzees, that have been taught to create "sentences" with computer symbols or sign language expend something very close to 100 percent of their utterances on demands for food, toys, or attention. There is no evidence that they have an independent notion of the symbols as standing for concepts. They have, rather, learned to manipulate series of symbols to get results. Dogs have certainly learned to look at us, or come, when we speak their name, but there is not a scrap of evidence that they grasp the notion that their name is their name, in the sense that it stands for or represents them.

Given all that, however, it certainly seems odd that dogs can distinguish words in human language. Studies by Russian speech scientists found that dogs can readily be trained to distinguish the vowels a and i produced by an audio synthesizer; even when the base pitch of the vowels was changed, the dogs had no trouble telling the two apart.

Dogs may often be confused by substitutions of one consonant for another - try saying "Fly clown" instead of "Lie down," and your dog will probably react exactly the same. But the ability to distinguish vowels depends on rather precise analysis or the higher-pitched resonances that accompany their base pitch. Dogs do not utter vowels themselves; why should they be able to tell them apart when we say them?

The simple and general explanation for this happy circumstance is that ears are older than speech. Mammalian ears have been around for tens of millions of years, and the ears of all mammals have much in common. Human speech, however, has been around for only 100,000 years or so, and the human vocal tract is a unique and late development. Only humans possess the vocal apparatus needed to generate the sounds of speech.

Interesting sharing huh?

Ok, that's the sharing for today.
Till we 'woof' again, have fun.


Puppy Training

Tuesday, August 15, 2006

How To Establish A Healthy Relationship With Your New Puppy?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.
How was your weekend? Must be GOOD. :o)

Hey, if you have a healthy relationship with your puppy, training will be a breeze.
So, lets go back to the basic.............

Establishing A Healthy Relationship With Your New Puppy

When you bring your new puppy home, you'll want to make him feel good while he's lying down or on his back. Give him a little stroke or an encouraging word. But don't overdo it. If you make the pup stay in that posture and he stays there, it teaches him a lesson both in submission and in dominance. That may seem okay. But the problem is that the dog also learns confrontation, not just with other dogs but also with people.

Dogs can be taught to be compliant without using force and confrontation. Do not shake him by the scruff of the neck and pin him to the ground, even though that's what wolves occasionally do to establish dominance. No matter how many times you've been told that you are the alpha animal, the fact is that people-dog relationships are not like wolf-wolf relationships. Dogs' teeth can inflict more damage than people's hands, so the wise thing to do here is not to start the confrontation.

Instead, start out with a companion-animal relationship where there's mutual respect for each other's roles (yours is to communicate direction, his' is to respond appropriately). Your dog will try to please you and be compliant, and you will praise him for doing so.

This is the kind of relationship you want to start as soon as you bring the puppy home, even before you take him to puppy kindergarten or hire a trainer to get him under control. Don't physically force your new pet to do things that he's not ready to do. Let him get used to one room at a time. Make sure that you keep track of when he is getting overly excited. This is your cue to say to him, "Settle!" or "Outside!" The word or phrase you use is up to you.

Try to go out the same door each time for the same activity. You will need to take him outside and stand there while he sniffs around and pees or poops, and you say, "Good Boy" then go indoors and play with him in a different location, so that he gets the idea that when we go to this one spot it's time to pee or poop, and when we go out a different door to another spot, that's where we play.

As you start to teach your dog good house-training techniques, you will also want to put him on a regular pattern of eating, usually three times a day at first. Occasionally, a pup will not seem too interested in eating. Besides finding out what he was eating when you acquired him, and offering him tidbits of chicken and beef from your fingers to whet his appetite, puppies like some company when they go to the food bowl. So if there is a litter-mate or a neighborhood puppy about the same age as yours who would like a dinner date, let them eat side by side a few times in the location you've chosen for daily feeding.

The idea is to make him comfortable and get him into a routine of regular eating, sleeping, elimination, and walking. Make sure that you don't do unpleasant things with your hands. Don't let your puppy start to chew or nibble on your fingers or hands. Even if the nibbling doesn't hurt now, it will hurt when he gets older and can lead to a bad habit that's difficult to break. Very soon, you'll be getting to know your new pet very well.

That's all for today sharing, till we 'woof' again, remember to build a healthy relationship with your puppy.


Puppy Training

Friday, August 11, 2006

How To Keep Children Safe Around Dogs?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.
Today, I am going to share something very important with you.

Keeping Children Safe Around Dogs

The shape and figure of a baby is larger than life in the eyes of a dog. If “Laddy” is there first, let him in on all your baby preparations in the house. When the baby arrives, let the dog sniff any item of clothing that has been on the baby before bringing her home. Then let Mom greet the dog first before introducing the new family member. Hold the baby down for the dog to see and sniff, but make sure someone's holding the dog on lead in case of any sudden moves. Do not play, keep-away, or tease the dog with the baby, which only invites undesirable jumping up.

The dog and the baby are "family," and for starters can be treated almost as equals. Things rapidly change, however, especially when the baby takes to creeping around on all fours on the dog's turf or, better yet, has yummy pudding all over her face and hands! That's when a lot of things in the dog's and baby's lives become more separate than equal.

Toddlers make terrible dog owners, but if you can't avoid the combination, use patient discipline (that is, positive teaching rather than punishment), and use time-outs before you run out of patience. A dog and a baby should never be left alone together. Take the dog with you or confine him. With a baby or youngsters in the house, you'll have plenty of use for that wonderful canine safety device called a crate!

Any dog in a house with young children will behave pretty much as the kids do, either good or bad. But even good dogs and good children can get into trouble when play becomes rowdy and active. Legs bobbing up and down, shrill voices screeching, a ball hurtling overhead, all add up to exuberant frustration for a dog who's just trying to be part of the gang.

In a pack of puppies, any legs or toys being chased would be caught by a set of teeth, and all the pups involved would understand that is how the game is played. Kids do not understand this, nor do parents tolerate it. Bring Laddy indoors before you have the reason to regret it. This is a time-out, not a punishment.

You can explain the situation to the children and tell them they must play quieter games until the puppy learns not to grab them with his mouth. Unfortunately, you can't explain it that easily to the dog. However, with adult supervision, they will learn how to play together.

Young children love to tease and to roughhouse. Sticking their faces or wiggling their hands or fingers in the dog's face is teasing. We can make the child stop by an explanation, but the only way a dog can stop it is with a warning growl and then with teeth. Keep in mind that roughhousing and teasing are the two major causes of children being bitten by their pets. Treat them seriously.

The key note here is Never Never leave your baby alone with your dog.

Ok, that's all for today sharing.

Till we 'woof' again next week, have a wonderful weekend.


Puppy Training

Thursday, August 10, 2006

How To Select The Best Puppy?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.
I received quite a number of request, asking me to give some tips on puppy selection.
Ok, I shall share my experience on .................

How To Select The Best Puppy Out Of A Litter

Once you have chosen a breeder, it is time to pick out the puppy from the available litter. A good rule of thumb is to avoid extremes. Disqualify any puppies that are excessively submissive or fearful, and avoid puppies that are extremely dominant or bullying.

Fierce food or toy guarding, exaggerated barking or biting, submissive urination, and extreme apathy are all bad signs in young puppies. Curiosity, however, is good, as are playfulness and confidence. Above all, do not let the puppy pick you. The big fat one that charges at you and monopolizes your attention may win your heart, but it is very likely the most dominant, and it will be a handful.

Decide which sex puppy you prefer. Males tend to be larger and more dominant, curious, and courageous. They are better workers and are not as moody. They do not come into season and are cheaper to alter. They are also more likely to fight and roam. Females are normally smaller, less dominant and defiant, and more sensitive and moody. They normally come into heat twice a year, but they are less likely to fight and to roam. If you have chosen an extremely dominant breed such as the Rottweiler or Chow Chow, you would be wise to consider a female. A male might be better if you have decided on a less dominant breed such as a Maltese or a Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier.

Do not choose two puppies from the same litter. Litter-mates bond very closely to each other, making it much more difficult for the owner to establish leadership. If you want two dogs, properly raise one puppy first, and then consider another, perhaps two or three years later. The older dog will serve as a role model for the puppy, making your job that much easier.

Observe the litter without interacting with it. How do the puppies look? Are there some large puppies and one or two runts? Do you see any glaring structural problems in any of them? Is there any loose stool or vomit present? Are some puppies very lethargic? If the breeder has classified some of the litter as show quality and the rest as pet quality, ask why. Also inquire as to the number of males and females. If there are only one or two puppies of the gender you desire, you will not have as much of a range of temperaments to choose from. Avoid picking a puppy that is the sole survivor in the litter; it will have missed the early crucial social interaction that goes on in a normal litter.

Next, enter the kennel and interact with the litter. How do they react to your presence? Do some run away and hide, bark and charge, or show playful curiosity? This last reaction is the most desirable. Next, examine each one and look for any overt physical problems. Look for eye or nose discharge, bloodshot eyes, mange, overly dry skin or coat, and fleas. Is the puppy's belly bloated? This might indicate worms, a condition that most puppies have and must be treated for. Look in their mouths to make sure that the gums are a healthy pink and not whitish gray. During this procedure, take note of how the puppies react to being handled. Do they fight and bite? Struggle and then submit? Show great fear?

Ok, that's all for puppy selection, but the key point here is to be a Responsible Dog Owner.
Dog has a lifespan of more than 15 years, meaning that we have to take care of our doggie friends for quite a long time, especially when they are sick and aged.
So, Don't buy the puppy just because they are 'cute'.

Ok, that's all for today sharing, till we 'woof' again, have fun with you doggie friend.


Puppy Training

Tuesday, August 08, 2006

How To Teach Your New Puppy To Play-Bite Softly?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Hope you had a good weekend having spent quality time with your doggie friends.

Lets start with today sharing...........

How To Teach Your New Puppy To Play-Bite Softly

One of the first dog training protocol you will want to initiate when you get a new puppy is to teach him to inhibit the force of his play-bites. It is not necessary to reprimand the pup, and certainly physical punishments are not called for. But it is essential to let your puppy know that bites can hurt. A simple "Ouch!" is usually sufficient. When the puppy backs off, take a short time-out to "lick your wounds," instruct your pup to come, sit, and lie down to apologize and make up. Then resume playing.

If your puppy does not respond to your yelp by easing up or backing off, an effective technique is to call the puppy a "Bully!" and then leave the room and shut the door. Allow the pup a minute or two time-out to reflect on the association between his painful bite and the immediate departure of his favorite human chew-toy. Then return to make up. It is important to show that you still love your puppy, only that his painful bites are objectionable. Have your pup come and sit and then resume playing once more.

It is much better for you to walk away from the pup than to physically restrain him or remove him to his confinement area at a time when he is biting too hard. So make a habit of playing with your puppy in his long-term confinement area. This technique is remarkably effective with lead-headed dogs, since it is precisely the way puppies learn to inhibit the force of their bites when playing with each other. If one puppy bites another too hard, the dog who gets bitten yelps and playing is postponed while he licks his wounds. The biter soon learns that hard bites interrupt an otherwise enjoyable play session. He learns to bite more softly once play resumes.

The next step is to eliminate bite pressure entirely, even though the "bites" no longer hurt. While your puppy is chewing his human chew-toy, wait for a bite that is harder than the rest and respond as if it really hurt, even though it didn't: "Ouch - Gennntly! That really hurt me, you bully!" Your puppy begins to think, "Good heavens! These humans are soooooo sensitive. I'll have to be really careful when mouthing their delicate skin." And that's precisely what you want your pup to think: that he needs to be extremely careful and gentle when playing with people.

Your pup should learn not to hurt people well before he is three months old. Ideally, by the time he is four and a half months old (before he develops strong jaws and adult canine teeth) he should no longer be exerting any pressure when mouthing.

So, does your puppy bite?
It is easier and better to correct this undesirable behavior when they are still young as puppy.

Ok, till we 'woof' again, have fun.


Puppy Training

Friday, August 04, 2006

Did You Know That Your Dog Would Absolutely Love A Massage?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.

Gonna share something fun with you today.

Do you realize........

Your Dog Would Absolutely Love A Massage?

Every culture that allows domestic pets teaches its members ways to relate physically with those pets. In some countries, dogs live a dog's life, and are rarely held or petted. We've noticed that some German dogs that we import do not seem to like our way of petting. After investigation with our German contacts, we have learned that Germans have a slightly different approach to their dogs. They pet and stroke them in a different way and in different places. Most people tend to pet dogs around the head and shoulder regions and stop there. Others literally trounce their dogs, pounding their sides and ruffling their fur.

Sometimes there is little method to the physical display. The dog is expected to "take it" whether or not it is the kind of physical affection it enjoys. Few dog owners stop to read their dog's needs and desires. A dog owner may find that the dog does not enjoy being petted - if by petting we mean rough jostling or pounding. Instead, like many humans, they greatly
enjoy a more extended type of body contact - a kind of massage.

Massage can be a beneficial technique when used as an aid to relaxation. The first principle of dog massage is to stop thinking of your dog solely from the shoulders up. Contact can be made with almost any part of the dog's body if it is sensitive contact. Skilled veterinarians know this from treating unapproachable patients. They often have to devise creative ways of lifting the animal up onto an examination table, or treating injuries all over a pet's body.

To begin a dog massage, make a list of all the areas where a given dog likes body contact. If you are the dog's owner, you know. If you are not, ask the owner. Then list the areas where
the dog is sensitive to touch. Begin your first massage with the areas on your first list, but include one area on the second. Gradually include more "forbidden" areas as you give massages.

It's best to begin on the head, gently massaging the eyelids, muzzle, and nose. Always keep one hand in contact with the dog during the entire massage. It's best to have the dog in the sitting position. From the head area, work down the neck to the chest and pectoral muscle. Some dogs will automatically offer a paw. Take hold of it, but gently place it down if the dog seems to be losing balance.

Choose a leg and work up and down on it very gently. If your dog decides to lie down, you will have better access to its rear legs. Try to avoid forcing the dog down. If your dog knows the command for down, you can use it in massage work, but don't force the issue. Make your
strokes long and firm. Try to distinguish massage from regular petting. The massage should be more extended and pliable in its movement than regular petting. Avoid all slapping, pinching, and pulling motions. These will break the mood of the massage. Many dogs will communicate quite clearly what they like and dislike.

Now, go give your doggie friend a good massage, you will be amazed how much they enjoy your massage.

Till we 'woof' again, have fun massaging your friends.


Puppy Training

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Words That Your Doggie Friends Should Know! (Part 3)

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.

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If not, please do so at my blog

Ok, without further ado, lets continue witht the topic we have been sharing for the past two days......

Words That Your Dog Should Know (Part 3)

Enough (Whatever you are doing was Ok, but I've just changed my mind and now I want you to stop it, as opposed to “No,” which means whatever you are doing is unacceptable and should never be done).
The command “Enough” is taught mainly, believe it or not, by tone of voice. It is usually learned rapidly and can stop excessive barking, a game of roughhousing that has gotten out of hand, or any activity that is usually ok but cannot, for whatever reason, continue at this point. It can calm a dog instantly. It can give you the full attention of a dog who was, up until a moment ago, acting up or acting out.

This word can mean as in “Do you want to go out?” It is also used for getting the dog to give up what he has retrieved. In addition, “Go Out” by itself means leave this room and go to any other place in the house.

Biscuit or Cookie (Dog biscuit).
The two words offer the fun of anticipating a treat. Therefore, when you say “Do you want a cookie?” he gets more than a dog biscuit. He gets to salivate a little imagining a dog biscuit.

Speak (Bark).
This word should be taught verbally and then as a hand signal.

Take It (Take this in your mouth).
As long as you are going to play with your dog, to toss a ball for him to bring back or to encourage him to carry small packages or help pick up his toys, you might as well add the phrase for that skill to his vocabulary. “Take It” is commonly used as a fetch or pick up command. Young puppies love to chase a toy or a ball and sometimes bring it back. If you keep retrieving fun for the dog, and if you name this activity, you have a nice game plus the option of tightening play retrieving into reliable retrieving on command later on.

Some dog owners do not like to use the command “Stay” except in the formal sense, the freeze on command. When letting the dog know he is not going on an excursion or not getting out of the car just then, they say “Wait” instead of “Stay.” This can also communicate something important to the dog who is off-leash trained. It would make more sense to say “Wait” as your dog bounds toward the corner or toward the exit of the park than to say “Stay” which would be asking him to freeze in mid-leap. “Wait” tells him not to cross the street, leave the park, rush out the door, until you tell him to. But it allows him to be at ease while waiting. It's worth teaching.

Ok, that's all the sharing on this topic.

Till we 'woof' again, have fun.


Puppy Training