Monday, July 31, 2006

This Is The Gift You Will Be Getting!

Hi all,
This is the gift that you will be getting if you are a subscribers of my blog

If you are yet to subscribe to this blog of mine, you might like to check it out and I am sure you will like what I share in this blog.

Subscribe to it using the sign-up box at the upper right hand corner, and you should receive the free eBook in a day or two.

Enjoy and have a Great Day.


Words That Your Doggie Friends Should Know! (Part 2)

Puppy Training

Hi all,
I believe that you had a good weekend.

Ok, lets continue with .......

Words That Your Dog Should Know (Part 2)

The following is a list of words that are crucial to training your dog:

Stay (Freeze).
Actually, the “Sit, Stay” is the way to teach vocabulary to a dog. It is through this initial discipline, which can be done very gently and without a choke collar on a very young puppy, that the dog learns how to listen and then how to learn.

What you request in the “Sit, Stay” is clear and comprehensible to the dog. Therefore, in the initial teaching of the command, he can absorb the concepts of both words. He will, for example, try to move from the spot. When you return him to it, he gets the “Stay” part. Now he'll lie down, figuring if he's going to be stuck in the spot, he might as well get comfortable. When he is returned to the “Sit” position by you (gently and with patience), he learns the exact definition of the word “Sit.”

Your dog therefore learns two vocabulary words that stand for two separate concepts. In addition, he learns how to learn. You will readily see the difference in the intelligent look on his face. Furthermore, the “Stay” command, once added to your dog's vocabulary, not only covers a multitude of situations, but it is the beginning of teaching your dog long sentences and important concepts. It is a great aid in keeping the dog from harm.

Heel (Walk at my side).
Heel” is a great command for a dog to know for two reasons. First, sometime he must leave home to see the vet, go visiting, or go to the boarding kennel. Second, he needs to be out. He should see the world beyond your yard, for his pleasure and to keep him from getting scared of to keep him from getting scared of new things, of strangers, of other dogs. He needs variety in order to be well socialized.

Many dogs who are raised in an ideal country setting, who are fed well, who are groomed and loved and cared for, get weird when they are outside their house. A well-balanced dog must be able to leave his own turf and be able to feel comfortable wherever he goes. Therefore, he should learn to “Heel” so that you can take him places neatly, easily, and frequently.

Down (Lie down).
This command, if enforced rapidly, can be a life saver. It can calm a dog. It can cover hours of waiting anywhere with your dog. It can also give you peace and quiet while you read a book, make dinner, or talking on the phone.

Stand (Stand).
Whether it's in the tub, in conformation or obedience competition, under the grooming brush, or to negate the automatic sit on a rainy day, “Stand” is a neat word to have in your dog's vocabulary.

Go (Move away or move away in the direction in which I am pointing or accompany me somewhere).
The command “Go” is a good word to teach dogs. Often, you can point and look forbidding and say “Go” and your dog will have learned it, just like that.

Ok, that's all for today, we shall continue with more tips at my next post.
By the way, I am preparing a free gift for readers at my the other blog

I should be sending out the free gift in a day or two, so, check this out and subscribe. :o)


Puppy Training

Friday, July 28, 2006

Words That Your Doggie Friends Should Know!

Puppy Training

Hi all,
How are you today? How is your doggie friend today? :o)

For the next few posts, I shall share some words that your doggie friend should know or learn.

Words That Your Dog Should Know (Part 1)

Many dog owners are at a loss for words when they wish to communicate with their dogs. Of course, your choice of words is not the issue. What is important is that you pace your vocabulary lessons in such a way that your dog absorbs the first few definitions before you go on to the text. And, since dogs are learning English as his second language, you must be very consistent in your teaching. In fact, in time, your dog, once started on the road to a better, richer vocabulary, will understand long sentences and life-saving orders.

Listed below is a sample of words to use on your dog. With these words, any dog can live in harmony with his human family, more or less.

No (Permission denied).
This is probably the first word a puppy hears, or at least that registers as a word. It is important for every dog to know a word that stops him from urinating on the carpet, hogging the bed, running out into traffic, nabbing that piece of chicken, and chewing on the sofa or your shoe. “No” is that magic word.

Ok (Permission granted).
In order to have a balanced, happy, obedient pet, approval is just as important as disapproval. You can give your pet permission to do something he'd do anyway, just to show him it's ok with you. This reinforces your position as the leader. It also increases the amount of positive reenforcement in your dog's life. You can use this release word to let him out of work, out of the house, into the car, at his dinner, and onto your bed. Dogs learn “Ok” instantly.

Good Dog (Approval from the top).
By saying “Good Dog” in the proper tone, you dog will give you everything. Saying “Good Dog” is the most important tool any owner has in training his pet.

Bad Dog (Disapproval from the top).
Bad Dog,” from the right lips, can be more powerful and more effective than any leash correction, any shaking, any cold shoulder, any confining, any anything you would think of doing to your disobedient dog. He must have your approval.
When you deny him that, you have already made a serious correction. No puppy grows to adulthood without hearing his share of “Bad Dogs.”

Sit (Plant your rump).
Even an untrained dog should know “Sit” and “Stay.” How else can you have any order or control? Your dog must sit while you wait at the vet, while getting his collar put on, while waiting for his bowl to be filled or the traffic light to change, and while being groomed.

Come (Join me).
The “Come” command is a crucial word in every dog's vocabulary. You need to be able to teach your dog to come quickly, cheerfully and willingly when he is off leash, out of doors, and playing with his friends.

Off (Get off).
The command “Off” is the proper word to say when you find your pet eating a greasy bone on your brand new white couch or shedding in your bed. It's also good for correcting jumping or any other situation in which the dog's big, hairy paws are on something they should be “Off.”

Ok, I think that's enough for today, we shall continue at the next post.

Till we 'woof' again, teach your doggie friend to respond to these words correctly.


Puppy Training

Thursday, July 27, 2006

Tips On Creating Cheap & Fun Home-Made Toys For Your Dog's Kennel!

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.
I always like to think of new ideas to make playing with our doggie friends fun.

Here I got some ideas to share with you.........

Create Cheap & Fun Home-Made Toys For Your Dog's Kennel

Rectangular or square, your kennel should be a fun place for the dog. Provide dog-sized toys. Owners of toy breeds might be able to substitute children's toys, but larger breeds need larger toys.

You can construct your own, as we often do, with old broom handles, leather scraps, and bells. Just make sure that all sharp edges are sanded down and that no toy is so small that your dog can swallow it. A simple obstacle course of old tires, a curved board cemented at each end for a nifty bridge, and scratch posts Can occupy many dogs for hours.

Dogs love any hanging object, especially if it makes some kind of noise. Suspend toys and leather scraps (ask for them at a leather shop) from strong ropes. Always use single strand ropes for hanging toys, and never arrange a hanging toy so low or in such a way that a hanging accident might occur. Rope toys suspended by springs make the toy snap back when the dog lets go, and the dog can play fetch alone. Hanging toys with bells attached keep pets fascinated, but make sure the noise does not bother neighbors.

That's all folks, till we 'woof' again, have fun.


Puppy Training

Wednesday, July 26, 2006

How To Socialize Your Dog?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.
Yeap, I shared about how to socialize your dog months ago and given some tips to test out how sociable your dog is (just last week?), I can't emphasize enough how important is for your dog to be sociable.

So, today, I would like to touch on this subject again....

Socializing Your New Dog

Below are some helpful tips on how to socialize your new dog with existing pets in the household, with your friends, and with other people's animals.

Socializing with Existing Pets:
Make an initial contact with other dogs outside the home. If you can, take your existing pet (or pets) for a walk and have a friend meet you somewhere with your new dog. Take a long walk so the dogs can get used to each other. Switch dogs on your walk.

Take all the dogs back to the house. Switch dogs and have a tour of your home, with all dogs still leashed. Let your existing house dogs loose, but keep the new dog tied to you. If the new dog tries to mark the house anywhere, correct him with a sharp jerk and a stern "No!" If any of the existing dogs try to mark, correct them in the same manner. Explain to all, in no uncertain terms, that marking will not be tolerated. In addition, when you feed the dogs be sure to feed the established pets first and stay near the new dog while he eats.

Most established pets, if already well socialized, will enjoy a newcomer as long as the newcomer is friendly and is introduced in the manner described above. If you find you have brought in a troublemaker, you must remain the Alpha dog. If you are not willing to assume that responsibility, take the dog back.

Socializing with Your Friends:
While puppies always generate warm feelings, adult dogs do not. It is especially important that they make a good impression on your friends and neighbors from the start, especially if you already have other pets. Set rules for your new dog immediately.

No jumping on friends; keep your dog leashed the entire time friends are at home gatherings for the first few weeks to make sure your dog does not try to jump on them. No barking when the doorbell rings; no running out the door when you open it for guests; make him sit at your side and ask the guests to ignore him until everyone is in and he has a chance to evaluate the new people. Let him approach them for petting if he is calm; if not, wait until you have established the control you need so as not to make a spectacle of yourself and the dog.

When he can accept guests, make sure he does so with all four feet on the ground. It is easy for a dog to try to explore with his paw as well as his nose. If you are firm and consistent from the first guest on, you not only will eliminate obnoxious behavior but will instill acceptable behavior. The end result: Your friends will welcome his addition to your family.

Socializing with Other People's Animals:
The same logic applies here as with your other animals, so use the same type of rules. Take long walks on which you know you will meet friends doing the same with their animals. Contain and restrain your dog from barking at other animals as they approach. If necessary make him sit at your side.

Always allow thorough sniffing from both animals, as this is their way of saying hi. If at all possible, invite friends and their animals back to your home and allow the dogs to play by themselves. This solves many problems the everyday pet owner may not think about and he will find the dog much more relaxed and easier to handle.

So remember to ALWAYS give your dog (especially puppies and new comers) a lot of opportunities to socialize, it helps in their character building.

Ok, till we 'woof' again, lets go and let your doggie friend meet some friends.


Puppy Training

Tuesday, July 25, 2006

How To Train Your Puppy To Track & Fetch

Puppy Training

Hi all,
I believe you had a good weekend. I had.... hee hee hee.....

I have shared this topic before, some subscribers wrote in to ask for more detail.

So...let begin with today sharing.........

Training Your Puppy How To Track And Fetch

These are just two things you can do to build rapport between you and your puppy and at the same time teach him to respond positively to learning so that his advanced training will be easy.

Tracking: Puppy tracking is a wonderful way to get you and your puppy out for a walk. Tracking is natural for a dog and is relatively easy to teach, at least for short distances.

1. Find a park or a nice open area.
The initial site does not need to be very big. Tie your puppy to something and let him watch you "lay a track" by placing tidbits on the ground one foot apart in a straight line for ten feet. Also let him watch you put his favorite toy at the end of the track.

2. Walk back through the same track to the puppy.
Take him to the first piece of food, point to it and say "Track." Encourage him to put his head down and keep it down by pointing to the next piece of food. He will quickly start smelling the food from piece to piece! When he reaches the toy, praise him and play with the puppy and the toy. Repeat this exercise three times.

3. If you practice two or three times a week on short tracks, he will become reliable pretty quickly.
As his nose keeps to the ground, spread the treats a little farther apart each time you "track." When he can go fifty yards in one direction, lay another track at a 45-degree angle to the right or left. You should also have someone else start laying the tracks so that the puppy will learn to track different people. Do not try to hurry things along by going too far too fast or by making too sharp turns.

That's all for Tracking, I shall leave the fetching to the next post. Stay tuned.


Puppy Training

Friday, July 21, 2006

Every Puppy Has His Personality, But How To Tell?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Yesterday, we shared tips on finding out how sociable your doggie is, today, we shall touch on their personality.

How To Determine Your Puppy's Personality Type

Here are four tests you should perform with each puppy in order to determine whether it is normal, dominant, or submissive:

1. Hold each puppy up so that its feet are a few inches off the floor. Observe its reaction: A normal puppy will struggle for a few seconds and then settle down. This reaction indicates spirit but also a willingness to accept authority. A dominant puppy will continue struggling and may howl and bite. A submissive puppy will just dangle passively and accept the situation or in severe cases, panic and submissively urinate.

2. Hold each puppy on its back in your lap. Comfort it by stroking its belly and talking to it softly. Observe its reaction: A normal puppy will struggle briefly, then settle. This is the response that most buyers should look for. A dominant puppy will struggle constantly, howl, and perhaps try to bite. A submissive puppy will succumb and perhaps urinate or, in an extreme case, panic.

3. Set the puppy on its feet on the floor. Then toss a ball or a crumpled piece of paper away from the puppy and observe its reaction: A normal puppy will chase the object, play with it, and perhaps bring it back to you if you call out to it. It will allow you to take the object away without much fuss. A dominant puppy will chase the object, take it to a corner, and ignore you when you call out to it. It may growl at you if you attempt to reclaim the object. A submissive puppy may not react at all to the object or may actually be afraid of it.

4. Crouch down a few feet from the puppy and encourage it to come to you by clapping or whistling. Observe its reaction: A normal puppy will happily come over to you in a confident, playful manner. A dominant puppy will either charge you and jump up on you recklessly or completely ignore you. A submissive puppy may hide in a corner or come over cautiously and expose its belly, perhaps even urinating upon being touched.

Let us consider extremely submissive behavior to be far left of center, normal to be at the center, and extremely dominant to be far right of center. Most buyers who are looking for a loving, trainable family pet should consider a puppy that performs as close to the center as possible. If you desire a working or obedience dog, or if you are a robust, physically imposing person, you may wish to consider a puppy that is slightly to the right of center. If you are a quiet, slight person, look for a puppy that is slightly left of center.

When dealing with a dominant breed such as the Rottweiler, Mastiff, or German Shepherd, you would do well to consider a puppy that is slightly left of center. When dealing with a submissive breed such as the Maltese, Greyhound, or Wheaten Terrier, you might wish to consider a puppy that is slightly right of center. In all cases, avoid the extremes.

Great tests to determine the personality of your doggie, right?
Try it out........ have fun.

Till we 'woof' again, love your dog.


Puppy Training

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

Do You Know How Sociable Is Your Dog?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Have you tried out all the games suggested in the last few posts with your puppies?
Isn't it fun?
Playing with your puppies not only give your puppies (and yourself) an oppotunity to exercise, it also builds a stronger bond between you and your doggie friends.

Ok, anyway, lets begin with today sharing ...........

How Sociable Is Your Puppy?

Do you want to find out how sociable and outgoing your puppy is? Then try this little experiment:

Put a few toys down in the room. Quickly walk away from your puppy and then observe his reaction:

*A favorable response would be the puppy running happily after you, regardless of what else might be occurring. This shows that the puppy highly desires the company of people, a trait that is advantageous. This puppy should be easy to train and should learn to focus well on you instead of distractions.

*An unfavorable response would have the puppy ignoring you and investigating something else, perhaps a toy on the floor or a sound coming from another room. This puppy may not value interaction with humans over his own desire to investigate his surroundings.

He may not be as easy to train as the puppy that values human interaction above all else. A puppy that ignores you in this way may have an unfocused or independent mindset that could be a prelude to dominant behavior.

Lets go and test out your doggie, and see how sociaable is he or she.

Ok, till we 'woof' again, have fun.


Puppy Training

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

Here Are 2 More Games For Puppy-Loving Fun!

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.
I believe you had a wonderful weekend.
Sorry for not written yesterday.

Have been pretty busy lately.
Anyway, just to compensate, here are .......

2 Games For Puppy-Loving Fun

1. King of the Hill:
This game can be as much fun for puppies as it is for people. All you have to do is put a leash on your puppy (and a couple of puppy buddies), take a treat and lead him up the ramp to the platform. Let him sniff the entire platform and get used to it, then lead him down another side. Repeat from all directions, then take the leash off and toss a toy onto the platform and watch him figure out the easiest way to get it! Several puppies playing this is a lot of fun to watch.

2. Playhouse:
A playhouse can be used for children and puppies alike. The more inventive you are, the more fun both kids and puppies will have. If you are not handy with a hammer and nails, you can purchase plastic playhouses, or go to a piano shop and get a piano box. The easiest way to familiarize the puppy with the playhouse is to let him follow kids through it, so if you do not have any, borrow some from the neighbors! (This is good socialization for your puppy and the neighbors, and it ensures that they will watch out for your puppy!) You can also hide various toys in the playhouse when puppy is not looking.

Yeap, today's sharing is quite a short one, I am preparing a LONG tips for my next posting, so stay tuned.

Till we 'woof' again, have fun........ :o)


Puppy Training

Saturday, July 15, 2006

Here Is How You Can Find Out Your Puppy Confidence Level!

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Today I would like to share with you a fun way to find out .............

How Confident Is Your Puppy?

There is a simple way to find out how confident your puppy is. Keep in mind, however, to not perform this test if the puppy is from eight to eleven weeks of age, as this is the "fear imprint stage." During this period, sudden noises or unexpected, scary events can have a profound, lasting effect on him.

Wait until the puppy is not paying attention to you. Then, without him seeing you, drop an object down on the floor. It should be something that will make a fairly loud, sudden noise, perhaps a steel pan or container of some sort. Do not throw it down too close to him. Observe his reaction:

A favorable response would have the puppy showing some caution at first, but quickly recovering and then showing some curiosity toward the object. This puppy is confident, well-adjusted, and does not show irrational fear.

An unfavorable reaction would have the puppy howling and bolting in fear, heading for the farthest corner of the room, perhaps even urinating or defecating. This puppy lacks confidence, and could end up being fearful of unexpected situations or persons. A puppy that reacts in this way could become fear-aggressive.

Lets do this confidence level test for your puppy if he/she is older than 3 months old.

Till we 'woof' again, have a wonderful weekend.


Puppy Training

Friday, July 14, 2006

Here Are Some More IDeas To Keep Your Dog Busy!

Puppy Training

Hi all,
As promised, here are some more ideas in..........

Keeping Your Dog Busy

Lure Coursing:
Lure coursing is somewhat akin to Greyhound racing but is held in fields with twisting courses over uneven ground. Lure coursing is designed to test a dog's agility, as well as his speed, endurance and prey instinct. The dogs are taught to chase a lure, which is really a plastic bag, and their enthusiasm for the chase is an unforgettable sight. For more information on this sport, contact the American Sight-hound Field Association.

Hunting is as natural as walking to many dogs and by using natural talents they can perform both vigorously and happily and give you physical rewards at the same time. Anyone who has worked with his dogs in the field, whether hunting birds or small game, will tell you that there is nothing as thrilling as watching his dog work the field, fetch game or take a point and hold it. There are many types of competitive events available for hunters and information may be obtained from the AKC on field trials and hunting tests for sporting dogs and field trials for hounds, all at varying levels of competition.

Therapy Dogs:
Therapy dogs are increasing in number by the day. Hospice services, Nursing and convalescent homes, centers for gifted children and even hospitals are opening their doors to visits by therapy dogs. These dogs can be of any age or breed (some organizations request only registered therapy dogs; others welcome any well-behaved and loving pet) and are only expected to be very stable and accept much petting and loving from the residents they are visiting. These dogs can sometimes elicit responses from the ill or handicapped better than nurses, doctors or even family members. Most dogs instinctively realize when a human is suffering some form of handicap.

Visits with a therapy dog may be just the thing that will bring relief or happiness to an otherwise ill or hard-to-reach person, and your joy at seeing your dog relate to these people is more than worth every minute of your time. To find therapy groups near you, inquire your local Kennel Club or organizations dedicated to the needs of nursing-home residents, convalescents and mentally-challenged persons.

Ok, quite a lot of ideas huh..........

Till we 'woof' again, go and do something meaningful with you doggie friend.


Puppy Training

Thursday, July 13, 2006

Here Are Some Ideas To Keep Your Dog Busy!

Dog Training

Hi all,
Did you have fun yesterday playing with your puppy?

Today, I would like to share more ideas on............

Keeping Your Dog Busy

The following is a list of activities that you can engage with your dog. These activities are not only fun, but they also provide a great way to exercise and to preserve your dog's natural instincts and abilities.

Tracking is a great way to get your exercise and wear the dog out. It means exactly what it says: The dog follows a track laid down by another person. An article of the owner's is placed at the end of the track and the dog must find that article by following the track. It is often said that a tracking test builds real character, as the terrain is often difficult and the weather is sometimes completely undependable; since the owner cannot assist the dog in any way, everything seems to be left to God and the dog! Training this exercise is more time-consuming than difficult, and it requires a great deal of patience.

Several different tests are available from different associations, with different degrees of difficulty. Basic tests cover short tracks that have only a few turns and a short lag time between laying and running. More difficult tests include more turns, cross tracks, and several items left on the track to be found, with a longer lag time between laying the track and running it.

Weight Pulling:
Weight pulling has long been a favorite sport for the Alaskan Malamute and Samoyed breeds, but in the past few years this competition has spread to many other breeds, including, of all things, the desert-dwelling Basenji. Pulling divisions are divided by weight and experience. Dogs are put in harness and must pull a sledge loaded with varying amounts of weight for varying distances in order to earn their points.

Herding competition has long been recognized in European countries and has been found in many forms in the United States. Many communities have stock dog fancier clubs or associations. Several breed clubs have initiated herding instinct tests, and the AKC has just initiated a Herding Instinct Test. These beginner levels allow you to assess any possible herding instincts in your dog and allow you to see if that type of competition would be of interest to you.

"Real" herding, which consist of gathering, driving and penning, as performed by the working stock dogs, is an event that will catch your heart. To see these intent animals working stock at great distances all on their own is truly an amazing sight.

Sled Racing:
Sled racing can be anything from a friendly competition between two men and their dogs to a competition as strenuous as the thousand-mile Iditarod Trail Dog Sled Race. Here again, the dog's natural talents are emphasized. While Arctic breeds are most visible, many other breeds (including Poodles and Irish Setters) or mixed breeds can be very competitive.

I think that's enough for today, shall share with you more ideas tomorrow.

Till we 'woof' again, have fun.


Dog Training

Wednesday, July 12, 2006

Check Out These Agility & Coordination Games For Your Puppy!

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Hey, here are some more games you can play with your puppy.

3 Agility & Coordination Puppy Games

1. Open Tunnel:
Use one barrel or tunnel at first, then add two or three more as the puppy learns to move through them. Have a friend pick your puppy up and gently put him in the tunnel while you reach through the other end and coax him to you with a bit of bait or his ball. He will quickly learn to run through it on his own.

2. Closed Tunnel:
Begin as you did with the open tunnel, but hold a sheet up at the end of the tunnel the first couple of times the puppy is sent through. As he reaches you the third or fourth time, let the sheet down. Each time, let the sheet down sooner until he can run through and push the sheet up by himself. Be sure to make sure he is secure each step of the way. Do not let the sheet get tangled around him.

3. The “A-Frame” Game: Put two leashes on the puppy. Get on one side of him and have a friend on the other. Use a piece of food and slowly coax him up and down the A-frame. Most puppies want to go over too fast, so be careful. A person on each side helps ensure that he goes up the middle.

Hm..... that's all for today.
Till we 'woof' again, have fun.


Puppy Training

Tuesday, July 11, 2006

Here Are Some Games You Could Play With Your Puppy!

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.
Today, I would like to share with you some ideas that you can use to have a good time with your puppy.

5 Ways Of Keeping Your Puppy Busy

All of the games and skills discussed below are designed to contribute to both the fun and the positive upbringing of your puppy. These energy-producing exercises act as building blocks that make advanced training easier and enhance the bond between owner and puppy.

Grooming Practice:
Starting grooming procedures at an early age teaches the puppy acceptance of hands-on treatment over all parts of his body and emphasizes relaxed "stays." Grooming also assures the owner of dominance as nails are cut and teeth are cleaned, as the puppy learns to be quiet and tolerate-these "house-cleaning" techniques.

Hide & Seek:
Hide and seek is fun for owners and puppies alike and helps teach your puppy how to come.

1. Put your puppy on a sit-stay or have someone else hold his leash.
2. Hide behind a nearby tree or, if inside, a piece of furniture.
3. Wait five seconds, then call him excitedly.
4. When he "finds" you, praise him with lots of love and a tidbit or ball.
5. Make each hiding place a little harder and a little farther away. Sometimes return to your puppy and end the game at that point so he will not think he always has to leave to get you near him.

Find The Toy:
Find The Toy teaches early discrimination by smell.

1. Tie your puppy to a chair or have someone hold his leash.
2. Let him watch you put several objects on the floor: a can, bottle, box, telephone. Use a glove or just barely touch these articles when placing them on the floor.
3. Go back to your puppy, take his favorite toy and hold it in your hands for several seconds, and let him watch as you throw it in with the other objects.
4. Release him and tell him "Fetch!"
5. When he does, praise him lavishly.
6. As he gets good at selecting his toy, use one of your well-scented gloves or socks and put it with similar objects that are unscented. Pretty soon scent discrimination will be an understood part of his life from your viewpoint, not just from his viewpoint.

High Jump:
At first, try just walking over the jump with the puppy at your side. If that works, fine; if not, put your puppy on one side of the jump and get on the other side. Use a piece of food to coax him over. If you have a leash on the puppy be sure to keep it loose when he jumps. You never pull a puppy (or a dog) over a jump.

Bar Jump:
Same as above, except start with the bar on the ground. Slowly raise it after each successful jump.

Fun? Go try it and have great fun with your puppy.

Till we 'woof' again, enjoy.


Puppy Training

Monday, July 10, 2006

How To Introduce A New Puppy To Your Other Pets?

Puppy Talk

Hi all,
Good day to you.
I believe you had a wonderful weekend.

Well, I have yet to plan out a new series for our sharing, give me a idea.

So, for the next few post, I shall share whatever comes to my mind, and today, we shall share about ..............

6 Steps To Introducing A New Puppy To Your Other Pets

Introducing a puppy to the existing pets in a household is accomplished positively if the established house-pet is acknowledged before the puppy is acknowledged.

1. Before bringing puppy home, feed your established pet a partial meal.

2. When you bring the puppy home, bring your pet outside to greet the puppy. If you have a particularly dominant-type pet, arrange this meeting a block or so from your home.

3. Walk the pet with the puppy (however well you can get the puppy to walk!) and let the existing pet sniff the puppy all he wants. Stay outside for forty-five minutes to an hour.

4. Take the pet and puppy into the house and just walk around the house for ten to fifteen minutes, letting everyone get adjusted to a new body in the house.

5. Feed the established pet another partial meal and let puppy watch.

6. Feed the established pet again, and this time put a bowl down for puppy. If the other pet comes to the puppy's bowl, tell him "No." Whenever you feed your animals, feed the older ones first, but make them respect the puppy's bowl.

If you already have a pet and getting a new puppy, try the method illustrated above.

Ok, that's all for today sharing, till we 'woof' again, have fun.


Puppy Talk

Sunday, July 09, 2006

Are You Stressed Or Your Puppy Stressed At The Training?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
A Very Good Weekend to you.
I would like to conclude this series of Puppy Training with today sharing, and we shall start something new tomorrow.......... what's the new topic.......... you will find out tomorrow.... :o)

Avoiding Stress In Training Your Puppy

The main purpose in puppy training is to build a communication system between the two of you. You are teaching your dog how to learn. In contrast to the positive approach of puppy training, many obedience classes use a lot of leash jerking and a certain amount of punishment if the dog is not performing well. There is a fine line between the two attitudes and it is a vitally important difference.

With a young puppy, if you are forcing him to perform perfectly and punishing him even mildly if he does not, you may be asking for trouble later on. After a puppy is six to eight months old, he can usually begin to handle corrections and accept much more firmness in his training but not at three, four and five months of age.

Stress should not be a specific part of puppy training. That comes later when the pup is six to eight months old and ready for a more formal training. Of course, it is not possible or necessary to completely avoid stress because there is often a small amount in any of a puppy's activities. However, stress should be eliminated as a planned part of the actual training.

That concludes our Puppy Training series.

Yes, hm..... I know what you are thinking...... it is a little bit short for today sharing, right?
Okie, I shall share with you some tips as a take-away gift..........

5 Tips To Remember When Teaching The “Come” Command

1. Use it sparingly.
When you overuse “Come”, puppies stop paying attention. When your puppy understands the command, avoid using it all the time. Say it infrequently and make it extremely rewarding.

2. Do not chase your puppy if he does not respond.
Practice on-lead for now.

3. Never call for negatives.
If you have to groom, bathe, or isolate your puppy, do not use “Come.” Also avoid using it when you are angry. You will only scare your puppy out.

4. If your puppy runs away from you, do not repeatedly call or correct him.

5. Use a different command to bring your puppy inside.
Coming in from outdoors is a big drag, no more fun than being left alone or ignored. Using the “Come” command when you want to bring him in makes it a negative command. Instead, pick a command like “Inside.” Start using it on-lead when bringing your puppy into the house. Quickly offer a treat or ball toss.

Okie, that's all and we shall 'woof' again tomorrow.


Puppy Training

A Gift For Subscription To My Other Blog

Hi all,
Good day to you.

I am placing this book cover at the Sign Up Box to indicate this as the free gift for subscripting to my blog, but I am also giving away the "Guide To Dog Training" though I am not mentioning it.

Hm..... I am also getting a free gift for my subscribers to my 2 other blogs namely

1. Personal Learning Lifestyle
2. Alternative Healthy Lifestyle

Please go and take a look at the tips that I share at these 2 blogs.
I would inform you once the free gifts are ready.

Okie, that's all for this notice.

Have a beautiful Sunday.


Saturday, July 08, 2006

Is Your Puppy Jumping At You? How To STOP It?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Just a gentle reminder, have you downloaded the eBook "Guide To Dog Training", if not, check you mail.

Ok, lets begin with today sharing.....

Puppy Jumping And How To Prevent It

Puppy training can be taught in many various different forms, and it is especially important to be clear on your vocal training commands. Your little pup may become confused if told the same things that may have different meanings to you. For a great example, let's refer to the command words “OFF” and “DOWN”.

It is important to learn the difference between "OFF!" and "DOWN!." When you get into obedience work, you will use the command "DOWN!" to mean that the pup will lie down. Therefore, while you're working on the problem of jumping up on or at you, don't use the wrong command. Tell Puppy "OFF!" And what if she doesn't? Let's examine why a puppy jumps before we try to eradicate jumping.

Have you ever greeted someone you love and been able to see only that person's ankles? Don't you want to look into the face of your beloved? So does your puppy, so, being very short, it jumps up to see you. The first thing you can do to begin to eradicate the unacceptable jumping is bending or squatting down to greet your puppy. You bend and your puppy doesn't have to jump up to see your face. That's an important beginning.

Second, every time the puppy jumps up on you, take his/her front paws, put him off you firmly, and while you're doing this, say "OFF!" loudly and firmly. If you do this, coupled with the bend-over greeting, while the puppy is still young, you have no need for rougher methods. Remember to pat him and say "Good Puppy" as soon as all four feet are on the floor.

Praise must always follow any attempt by the pup to do what you've demanded, even if the attempt is a pretty casual version of what you have in mind as ideal compliance. Your praise is your puppy's reward for good behavior. However, maybe you have a year-old stubborn-minded dog who has been running your life his way before you read this. You don't need me to tell you that you have a problem!

You're going to have to get rougher than the behavior described above if you want results. I suggest a knee-jerk reaction. When you see your dog coming at you to jump, bring your knee up fast against his chest. At the same time, shout "NO. OFF!" Do this every time. You may even shove with your knee. Knocking the dog down once or twice may be beneficial to it in getting the message across; certainly it'll be beneficial to you in working off some frustrations.

Hm, we have to start training our doggie friend not to jump on us when they are still puppy, else when they grow into a adult dog, then ..................... you can imagine what happens if it is BIG dog.

Ok, that's all for today sharing.

Have a wonderful weekend.


Puppy Training

Friday, July 07, 2006

Don't Fotget To Download Your Free eBook!

My dear readers,
Good day to you.

Just a friendly reminder, if you have not collected the free book "130 Dog Treats Recipes", just fill in the subscription box at the right upper Corner of my blog, check your email to confirm your subscription, and you will get the free ebook immediately.

Hm..... for existing subscribers, you might have noticed that I have put up a graphic at the subscription box, isn't it attractive?

I will continue to look for useful gifts for all my subscribers as a token of appreciation.

Thank you once again for reading my blog and I believe you enjoy it and have learnt quite a lot from it, haven't you?

Thank and have a wonderful day.


Is Your Puppy Charging After The Door When Someone Knocks?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.
Sorry for not making a post yesterday because there was some network problem that I could not connect to the Net.

Here it is, we shall continue with the puppy behavioral correction and today we are touching on.......

Is Your Puppy Charging After The Door When Someone Knocks?

One very annoying habit of many dogs is that of charging the door when someone knocks. Since the dog is likely to run faster than the resident human, the dog thinks it's out of your range and hence only under voice control. Now having your dog thoroughly under voice control is a situation to be striven for, but it does not come overnight. In the meantime, how to cope?

I first used one of those chain collars that is supposed to be keyed so it would assault the
dog's ears when it was jangled, for I had an adult, incorrigible door charger, Cocoa.

One day when Cocoa was charging the door, I couldn't immediately find the sound collar, so I just grabbed a regular chain choker and threw it, hitting the door at the same moment that my voice hit his ears with the NO. The effect was the same: He backed off. Thus I learned
that one does not need any special equipment; the jangle of any choke chain suddenly landing out of thin air is upsetting enough to cause your dog to heed your NO command.

Repeated regularly, this combination of the thrown chain and the NO command resulted in the dog not charging doors anymore—in fact, he charged them a lot less, and finally not at all. I've used the technique since on other dogs who learned the lesson in just two or three sessions.

Do not worry about what the person at the door is going to think when you go through your correctional antics. People do not think kind thoughts when they are knocked down or jumped on by a dog that answers the door, so they're likely to appreciate your efforts to keep their entry safe. Besides using the thrown object indoors to aid training, thrown objects are useful outdoors, too. Put some pebbles into an empty plastic bottle and use it as an outdoor training aid.

The puppy who does not heed your voice command is startled by the rattle the bottle makes landing nearby and is quickly convinced that it is not safe to ignore you. A clod of dirt or a handful of pebbles will do in a pinch. Do not use anything that would hurt your pup if it hit. The object here is to get Puppy's attention, not to touch him. The combination of the thrown object and your command gets the pup's attention and improves compliance.

Be sneaky about throwing things; you don't want Puppy to see you doing the throwing, for that could make the pup afraid of you.

Have learnt useful today? I hope you have. :o)
Ok, that's all for today.

Oh yes, have you opened your email and downloaded the free ebook on Dog Training?
Read it, and I am sure you will learn a lot on Dog Training.

Till we 'woof' again, have fun.


Puppy Training

Wednesday, July 05, 2006

How To Prevent Your Dog From Nipping & Biting?

Puppy Training

Hi all,
Good day to you.
Have you checked your mail and downloaded the free book I sent to you?
It is quite a content rich and interesting book though the format is not that very fantastic.
Go ahead and read it, surely you will learn quite a lot on training your dog.

Ok, I shall continue with where I left off at my last post........

A Nipping/Biting Puppy And How To Prevent It

If your puppy is younger than 16 weeks and are constantly nipping, it's normal behavior - young puppies mouth a lot. They mouth when playing; they also mouth to communicate their needs.

If your puppy starts mouthing, ask yourself these questions: Is he hungry or thirsty? Does he need to eliminate? Is he sleepy? Does he need to play? Remember, puppies nip when they feel needy (just like a baby cries). If your puppy does not let up, ask yourself if he wants something, like an outing, exercise, or a drink.

The following things can help you control mouthing and nipping:

1. If your puppy does not need anything and he still will not quit, crate or isolate him with a favorite bone. Do not scold your puppy as you isolate her. Calmly place the puppy in her area.

2. Whenever your puppy licks you, say "Kisses" and praise her warmly. Encourage licking by slathering your hands with a frozen stick of butter.

3. Withhold your attention when your puppy nips softly. Keep your hand still; withdrawing your hand is an invitation to play and nip harder.

4. If your puppy starts biting down hard, turn quickly, say "Ep, Ep!" and glare into her eyes for two seconds; then go back to your normal routine. If she persists, try spritzing yourself with Bitter Apple or affix a leash onto your puppy so that you can tug the lead sharply to the side. If
necessary, place her in a quiet area to cool off.

If you have a puppy who still nips when he is older than 16 weeks, you need to start curbing it now. Although nipping will continue, you need to make clear that it is unacceptable.

Following are a few tips to help you:

1. Stop all challenge games. These games include wrestling, tug-of-war, chasing your dog around, and teasing. When you engage in these types of activities, you're sending the wrong message. These games teach dogs to clamp down hard on any object - a leash, the laundry, your shirt, or even your skin - and challenge.

2. Discourage all nipping, whether it's a bite on your arm or a nibble on your finger. Teeth do not belong on human skin, period.

3. Purchase a few weapons to use in defense, such as Mouth Spray, Bitter Apple spray, or a long-distance squirt gun. Never stare at your pup while you spritz or spray her; doing so turns an unpleasant result into a confrontational interaction.

4. Leave a leash on your puppy so you have something to direct her with and can avoid physical confrontation. If your dog's not wearing the Teaching Lead, place a short lead onto her buckle collar.

5. If your puppy begins to mouth, turn to him, use a lead or collar to snap her head from your body, or spritz the region he is nipping with a spray. Do not glare at him; otherwise, he will perceive your actions as confrontational play.

6. If he continues to nip, ask yourself these questions: Do I look convincing? Am I snapping or pulling? (Pulling encourages play.) Is my dog taking me seriously? You may need more training before you earn his respect.

Ok, that's quite a lot of sharing today, I shall stop here and continue with another behavioral correction tomorrow.

Take care .............. I meant your doggie friend. ;o)


Puppy Training

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

A Special Gift For YOU & Learn How To Stop Your Dog From Mouthing!

Puppy Training

Hi all,
I am back after being away for the last 3 days.
How have you been doing over the weekend? Hope everything including your doggie friend are just doing fine.

Yeah, I am back with a gift, a gift for you.

Da da .......

It is a compilation of articles on Dog Training.

I shall send it to you via your email address by end of today or early tomorrow, please check your mail.

Sorry that the ebook is not very well formatted, I believe the content is the one that counts, right, also the thought that counts. :o)
Hope you like it.

Ok, without further ado, lets begin today sharing.

Oh yes, from today onwards, we shal l share tips on doggie behavoiral correction, and today topic is ........


Mouthing and nipping are two different issues. Mouthing is a communication skill to get you to do a particular thing. Less pressure, less annoying, but still not particularly charming. Nipping is a puppy thing; it is interactive and playful. Nipping puppies are bossy and manipulative and need a firmer regimen.

Mouthing is often an attention-getting behavior. If your puppy uses it to communicate a need to go out, respond. If, on the other hand, your dog mouths you for a pat, ignore it. If he becomes too annoying, get a water spray and spritz him discreetly in front of his nose, hiding the spray in your hand and spritzing as you avoid all eye contact, comments, or pushing.

When you use the spray this way, you are performing a cause-and-effect correction rather than interactive discipline. Interaction involves eye contact and physical manipulation - not good. Cause-and-effect corrections result in unpleasant reactions that your puppy will try to avoid.

Ok, that's all for today folks.
Yes, I know today sharing is a little bit short, I shall compensate it tomorrow.

Take care and don't forget to check your email.


Puppy Training